In the glittering city of Paris, where art and fashion have intertwined their destinies for centuries, Fashion Week 2024 once again captured the world's attention. Bringing together renowned designers, celebrities and fashion enthusiasts, the event was a spectacular showcase of the trends that will shape our wardrobes in the months to come. Let us take you on a journey to the heart of this week where fashion is constantly reinventing the future, by presenting the highlights of this Parisian edition.
In the American musical panorama, from Taylor Swift and Lil Nas X to Post Malone and iconic Beyoncé, the union between country music and pop is intensifying, reviving the appeal of western fashion. The phenomenon of the "coastal cowgirl look", which emerged on TikTok last summer, has established itself as the flagship style for music festivals. At Paris Fashion Week 2024, Isabel Marant captured the essence of the Wild West with a collection that reinterprets the cowboy trend with unrivalled elegance and modernity. The designer has blended the free, adventurous spirit of cowboys with Parisian sophistication, offering a renewed vision of western chic. The fluid yet structured silhouettes perfectly combined femininity and robustness, while the play on textures and overlays evoked the refined rusticity of outdoor life. Iconic elements such as cowboy hats, worked leather boots and buckled belts were revisited with finesse, harmonizing with faded denim pieces, plaid shirts and elegantly arranged fringe, underscoring the movement and boldness of each outfit. Marant also incorporated touches of earthy color and nature-inspired motifs, reflecting the raw beauty of desert landscapes.
The combination of school chic and sporty dynamism really captured attention at Paris Fashion Week, offering a fresh, contemporary interpretation of two seemingly distinct worlds. This trend, inspired by preppy aesthetics revisited through the prism of sporty practicality, reflects a new approach to urban fashion. Designers have finely blended structured blazers, pleated skirts and button-down shirts with bold sneakers, technical backpacks and athletic accessories, creating silhouettes that are both sophisticated and casual. This stylistic fusion suggests an evolution towards versatile outfits, capable of navigating between the demands of everyday life and the desire for timeless elegance, redefining the codes of modern chic.
Paris Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2024 brilliantly captured this spirit with creations that evoke the softness of a refuge: cocooning silhouettes and enveloping styles dominate, among which stand out cable-knit sweaters, veritable emblems of classicism revisited. Aesthetically pleasing yet practical, these pieces represent a stylish response to the need for comfort and security, reaffirming cable-knit as a winter wardrobe staple.
Under the aegis of "quiet luxury", designers at Paris Fashion Week Autumn-Winter 2024 revisited typically masculine fabrics to enrich feminine allure with a touch of authority. A variety of ensembles, fashioned in tweed versions such as Donegal, herringbone patterns and studded textures, were unveiled, illustrating a sophisticated fusion of ruggedness and femininity. This approach is part of a desire to push back the traditional boundaries of fashion, giving feminine styles a new strength through the use of materials emblematic of the men's wardrobe.
Paris Fashion Week 2024 will be remembered as a moment of pure creation, where the audacity of designers met the contemporary challenges of our society. Between tradition and innovation, eco-responsibility and inclusivity, this fashion week not only defined the trends to come, but also laid the groundwork for a more thoughtful and committed industry. Paris, the epicenter of fashion, proved once again that it knows how to reinvent itself, inspiring the whole world to see the future in a new and exciting light.
]]>In January 2023 Louis Vuitton is launching their second collaboration with a renowned Japanese artist Yayoi Kusama after 10 years of the premiere of the first one. Such artistic collaborations attract a lot of attention in both fashion and art world, as well as in the luxury consignment commerce. Louis Vuitton has established itself as a patron of the arts. The brand collaborated with the biggest names in the art world, like Jeff Koons, Cindy Sherman and Richard Prince among others. It sponsors modern art exhibitions and in 2014 opened the Louis Vuitton Foundation, an art museum and cultural centre. In this month’s blog we look back at some of the most successful and important Louis Vuitton artistic collaborations and their influence on fashion and culture.
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Stephen Sprouse - Graffiti Collection (2001)
The first artistic collaboration, which blended art, fashion and commerce for the new contemporary luxury era happened when Marc Jacobs, who was the creative director of Louis Vuitton at that time, invited Stephen Sprouse to play around the iconic canvas in 2001.
Sprouse was an American designer and artist, popular in the 1980s. He started his career assisting Halston. When he launched his own company in 1983, his clothes were worn by Andy Warhol, Diana Ross, Mick Jagger and Debbie Harry of Blondie. His style was “a sort of punk couture”, mixing “uptown sophistication with downtown punk and pop sensibility” [17] .
For their collaboration with Louis Vuitton, Sprouse played with the most important and even “sacred” [1] [3] element of the brand - with its logo! He deliberately scrawled on a Louis Vuitton bag like a graffiti artist tagging a wall [3], mixing high and low, blending high-end elegance with pop culture. He also knew that his graffiti “represented the triumph of the human hand in the age of mega-corporation and mass-production” [3]. But apparently, it was Marc Jacobs, who got this idea when he saw a monogrammed trunk coated with a layer of black paint at actress-singer Charlotte Gainsbourg’s Paris apartment. [5] [16]
According to the fashion historian Olivier Saillard. “Predictably, the irreverence of this act drew astonished and scandalized reactions, but it was a strong creative breakthrough that proved very influential”. [3]
According to the book “Handbags: A Love Story” by Monica Botkier, this collaboration of Marc Jacobs with Stephen Sprouse for Louis Vuitton, was supposed to be only a runway and editorial collection. It ended up being a commercial blockbuster. [4] The graffiti motif, this time in fluorescent colours, was reissued in 2009 as a proof of its enduring popularity. The collection is remembered to be very popular with the celebrities of the time and it has become emblematic of the Y2K fashion.
This collaboration not only laid the groundwork for Louis Vuitton’s subsequent artistic collaborations but it also trickled down to the most casual area - a souvenirs marker. Marc Jacobs in one of the interviews noted an interesting fact - up to this day souvenir nylon tote bags, that say a location, like “Paris France” are written in a style, that’s imitating Sprouses’ works for Louis Vuitton in 2001. [4] [16] In addition, the cover of a book “The Carrie Diaries”, a prequel to Sex and the City about teenage Carrie Bradshaw, published in 2010, has a very similar to Louis Vuitton and Stephen Sprouse graffiti design.
In 2021 the fashion world celebrated 20 years of this collaboration, claiming that it was “one of the greatest collaborations of all times” [2] and “one of the most beloved” [7]. It is officially considered vintage now and can only be scouted on the resale platforms like Lux Second Chance. Notably, lately Kendall Jenner has been seen wearing it, increasing a demand for it for the new generations.
Stephen Sprouse - Roses (2009)
In 2004 Stephen Sprouse passed away from lung cancer. Five years after, in 2009, Marc Jacobs for Louis Vuitton presented a Tribute collection in memory of his friends and former collaborator.
The Tribute collection included the reissue of graffiti prints and introduction of leopard print, but more significantly the Roses motif, that has become very enduring. The design of the roses was sketched by Sprouse himself in 2001, but wasn’t used in the collaboration then. Roses had long been in his artistic vocabulary. He first started playing with roses in the 1970s, when he used a Xerox copier to enlarge and distort images of the flowers to incorporate into his designs. [5]
Louis Vuitton Tribute collection was timed to the opening of a Sprouse retrospective at New York’s Deitch Gallery and a release of a Sprouse's book by Rizzoli to celebrate his artistic legacy. Roses print was featured on Luis Vuitton signature handbags like Speedy, Neverfull, Alma, Pochette Accessories, as well as on shoes and clothes. Marc Jacobs designed graffiti-tagged T-shirts, leggings, jeans and the lining of a classic raincoat, and printed digitized roses on knit mini-dresses for Louis Vuitton. “I did my best, in a very first degree way, to do what I think Stephen would have done,” Jacobs said in a statement. [5]
Today it is resold on the secondary market beyond the market value and is considered one of the brand’s best collaborations [6] thanks to its timeless yet artsy look.
Takashi Murakami - Monogram Multicolore (2002)
Monorgam Multicolore Louis Vuitton by Takashi Murakami no doubt has become the symbol of Y2K fashion. It has become a part of the visual language of paparazzis who in early 2000s photographed this bag on the crook of the arms of iconic figures of the period like Paris and Nicky Hilton, Jessica Simpson, Lindsay Lohan, Lil Kim among others. This handbag exemplifies the fashion of that period, which is slowly making a comeback. Also, their partnership with the brand is significant for both the artist and the company.
Takashi Murakami was born on February 1,1962 in Tokyo, Japan. In 1994 he moved to New York and in 1996 he established an art production and artists management company called the Hiropon Factory - that sounds like a nod to the Factory of Andy Warhol. It became the precursor to his company Kaikai Kiki Co., Ltd that Murakami owns today. In 2001 he introduced the Superflat movement, a fusion of art and animation that focused in on post-war Japan, kawaii (cute) culture and became a commentary on the changes taking place in Japanese society as it hurdled towards Western consumerism. [11]
When Marc Jacobs discovered Takashi Murakami during an exhibition of his work at the Cartier Foundation for Contemporary Art in Paris in 2002, he knew he wanted to work with the Japanese artist. Launched for Spring/Summer 2003 the Multicolore Monogram line’s striking rainbow-hued print was a new and innovative take on the heritage brand’s world-famous logo.The first Murakami bags for Louis Vuitton are called Multicolore Monogram canvas, for which the artist created 33 colours, printed through 33 silkscreens, on a black and white background [3] instead of a classic brown beige logo canvas.
The logo was updated, it played around and signified a more fun approach to fashion. The collection was a smashing commercial success for Louis Vuitton and the artist. According to the fashion historian Olivier Saillard, “Louis Vuitton propelled Murakami’s international reputation”. [3] Though he had previously collaborated with fashion designers such as Issey Miyake Men by Naoki Takizawa, his work with Louis Vuitton made him widely known for blurring the line between 'high art' and commercialism. It also elevated him to celebrity status in his home country of Japan. In 2008, Murakami was named one of Time magazine's "100 Most Influential People", the only visual artist included. [10]
When Murakami held an exhibition in MOCA, the Los Angeles Museum of Contemporary Art, not only Louis Vuitton sponsored it, but they installed an actual store, that was part of the exhibition, by the invitation of the artist. That caused quite a scandal, yet Marc Jacobs called their collaboration “a monumental marriage of art and commerce”. [3]
Following the success of the Monogram Multicolore collection, Murakami continued his work with Louis Vuitton. Fun and whimsical Louis Vuitton Takashi Murakami collaborations followed, such as Cherry Blossom (2003), Panda (2004), Cerises (2005), MOCA Hands (2007 for Museum of Contemporary Art Los Angeles exhibition), Monogramouflage (2008), and Cosmic Blossom (2010). [8] Murakami’s imaginative and colourful aesthetic infused a radical, playful spirit into Louis Vuitton. [9]
However in the following decade of 2010s logomania was not as trendy, substituted by minimalistic and subtle styles of handbags, like Celine, Balenciaga and Alexander Wang. In 2015, Louis Vuitton announced that it was ending its relationship with Murakami, around the same time when Nicholas Ghesquière took over the reigns from Marc Jacobs [11]. The partnership between Murakami and Louis Vuitton was the longest artist collaboration the brand has ever had. After 12 years Monogram Multicolore line was officially discontinued.
But as the practice shows, what goes around comes around. With the nostalgia, resurgence for Y2K fashion and seeing celebrities wearing this collection, the interest for Takashi Murakami for Louis Vuitton has come back as well. His handbags are only available on the resale market today. Prices continue to increase over recent years, especially for certain popular models. Taking the Mini HL Speedy bag, loved by Kardashian-Jenner sisters, for example, the resale price has skyrocketed more than 200% in the past several years, and it still sells as soon as it hits the shelf. [8]
Yayoi Kusama - Chapter 1 and Chapter 2 (2012 and 2023)
The first collaboration between a Japanese female artist Yayoi Kusama and Louis Vuitton took place in 2012 under the creative direction of Marc Jacobs. The artist’s signature dots made it across clothing and some of the most famous Louis Vuitton silhouettes of the Keepall, Neverfull, Papillon and Speedy. To this day, pieces from the inaugural collection can be found at the premium prices on many resale platforms. They have become objects of desire for fashionistas and collectors.
Yayoi Kusama was born on March 22, 1929 in Matsumoto, Nagano in Japan. She began drawing pictures of pumpkins in elementary school and created artwork she saw from hallucinations, works of which would later define her career. By 1950, she was depicting abstract natural forms in watercolour, gouache, and oil paint, primarily on paper. She began covering surfaces—walls, floors, canvases, and later, household objects, and naked assistants—with the polka dots that became a trademark of her work.
In 1958, at the age of 27, she moved to the United States. During her time in the New York City, she quickly established her reputation as a leader in the avant-garde movement. Since 1963, Kusama has been creating her series of Mirror/Infinity rooms. In these complex infinity mirror installations, rooms lined with mirrored glass contain scores of balls, hanging at various heights above the viewer. Standing inside on a small platform, an observer sees light repeatedly reflected off the mirrored surfaces to create the illusion of a never-ending space. These exhibition have been an international blockbuster in Art museums worldwide up until this day.
Yayoi Kusama and Marc Jacobs’s first meeting was filmed in a documentary, Marc Jacobs & Louis Vuitton (2008) by Loïc Prigent. In a film they met at Kusama’s studio and the artist gifted Jacobs a handpainted Louis Vuitton Ellipse bag, covered with her signature polka dots. Then they talked about art, work and success. Kusama has definitely left a mark in the creative imagination of Jacobs as later they not only did a fashion collaboration — Vuitton’s most extensive with an artist ever [13], but also window displays with life-sized statues of Yayoi Kusama. Louis Vuitton also sponsored Kusama’s retrospective art show at the Whitney Museum, which then traveled to Madrid, Paris, and the Tate Modern in London.
In 2011 83-year-old Kusama received a formal request from Louis Vuitton to collaborate. Kusama received a sample of Louis Vuitton 1896 Monogram and was asked “to reinterpret it” [15]. A collection was formally announced and presented in 2012. Kusama remarked that the message she wanted to convey through the Louis Vuitton collection was “Love Forever”. In response Marc Jacobs expanded on her notion: “Love is a beautiful idea. The dots represent something that has no points, no hard edges and is infinite. And what could be nicer than infinite love?” [3]
According to Isao Takakura, the managing director of Kusama’s studio, when he first explained Louis Vuitton to Yayoi Kusama, he told her that “they’re a very famous fashion brand, and they have over 400 stores all over the world”. As Kusama’s own work deals with multiplication, or rather, infinite expansion, she perked up and said, “I see. So Louis Vuitton knows all about expansion” and began to really invest in the collaboration” [15]. So, for Yayoi Kusama, “her collaboration with Louis Vuitton generated a synergetic effect as the brand’s global network overlapped with the conceptual theme —multiplication — of her own production”. [15] This is why artistically it is no wonder that they are doing this again.
In 2022, a decade after the first collaboration, Louis Vuitton under the artistic direction of Nicolas Ghesquière announced a new partnership with Yayoi Kusama, now aged 94. The announcement followed the presentation of Cruise 2023 collection for the brand, which took place in San Diego in July 2022.
A preview of the new collaboration was seen at the show, with a classic motif of coloured dots, now more irregular and larger in size. This time there are also metallic dots in relief on the Twist bag. These are a direct reference to the artist’s installation Narcissus Garden (1966), made up of 1,500 mirror spheres. It also reminds us of the Infinity Mirror Room – Let's Survive Forever at the Art Gallery of Ontario in Toronto.
The brand launched an expressive marketing campaign for the upcoming collection. In November 2022 Louis Vuitton and Yayoi Kusama took over Tokyo through an array of artworks and exhibitions to promote the collaboration - Shinjuku Station with a lively ad of Kusama, Tokyo Tower, Zojoji and Shiba Park.
At the end of December 2022, the brand teased a photo of Gisele Bundchen by Steven Meisel among other supermodels, including Christy Turlington and Devon Aoki. WWD reported, “The print campaign, with its cast of models from various generations, is meant to reflect that Kusama’s art appeals to everyone. Its tagline, “Creating Infinity,” nods to a key subject in Kusama’s work.” [18]
The full collection is anticipated to be unveiled and will be available for sale in stores and online next year. Louis Vuitton & Yayoi Kusama's 2023 collaboration launches on January 1 in Japan and China, and then will be release at Louis Vuitton stores worldwide on January 6. A second drop of products is scheduled for March 31, to be backed by another ad campaign still under wraps. [18] It definitely will be very sought after and will make a great impact on the world of fashion and art.
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Featured Image photographed by Raymond Meier, Vogue, March 2001
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Opening up New York Fashion Week Spring/Summer 2023, Silvia Venturini Fendi threw a birthday party for the now-eternal It-bag she first originally designed in 1997. The collection included an impressive lineup of collaborators including Marc Jacobs, Tiffany & Co., and, of course, Sarah Jessica Parker–who’s iconic portrayal of Carrie Bradshaw helped cement the Baguette bag into fashion notoriety. The result of these powerhouse collaborations was a joyful tribute to the iconic piece as interpreted by each of the creative contributors, spanning both clothing and accessories. [7]
The singer strutted down the Coach runway at New York Fashion Week wearing a full leather look, complete with jelly sandals. Yes, the ones that you remember if you were a child in the 90s.
Lil Nas X and Coach have been closely affiliated since his hit single, with Billy Ray Cyrus, dominated the charts in 2019. In an Instagram post following the show, Coach announced Lil Nas X was the new global ambassador for the brand. [6]
Andy Sachs (played by Anne Hathaway in the 2006 film The Devil Wears Prada), sat front row at the Michael Kors show, and honestly, Miranda Priestly would have been proud. What topped off this ultimate fashion cosplay was the fact that Hathaway was sat right next to Vogue Editor-in-Chief Anna Wintour, the alleged real-life inspiration for top boss and our favorite villain, Miranda Priestly.
Supposedly, the character crossover was not at all intentional, according to Hathaway who shared the story with Savannah Guthrie on Today. For the Michael Kors show, Hathaway donned a brown crocodile coat, turtleneck top, and skirt paired with thick bangs, and a high ponytail, reminiscent of Andy’s look in the final scene of the film. [5]
London Fashion Week saw itself in a unique circumstance this year following the death of their longest reigning monarch, Queen Elizabeth II on September 8th. Much of the fashion week was thrown in disarray, especially with rescheduling around Her Majesty’s state funeral taking place on September 19th. Both Burberry and Raf Simons canceled or postponed their shows during the week [1].
Other designers followed suit and respectfully held off on their runway presentation until later dates or not at all.The British Fashion Council released a statement calling for fashion press and buyers to continue to support the London Fashion Week designers, many of whom had invested huge amounts of time and money into their shows, and those who did go ahead found unique ways to pay tribute to Britain's longest-serving monarch.
If you need a sure sign that we are officially in a 1990s and 2000s renaissance, look no further than the Barbiecore trend and Paris Hilton closing Versace’s Milan Fashion Week show. Hilton donned a sparkling pink chainmail mini dress and fingerless gloves–a nod to one of her many iconic looks from the early 2000s. [2]
The hotel heiress was the grand finale in a starry catwalk line-up, featuring everyone from Bella and Gigi Hadid to Irina Shayk and Emily Ratajkowski. The show saw a more gothic turn from Donatella Versace, who this season was inspired by rebellious women, blending darkly romantic bridal looks with slashed dresses and lots of leather. [2]
Audiences were seeing double at Gucci’s Milan show as creative director Alessandro Michele sent 68 sets of identical twins down the runway for his “Twinsburg” presentation. The runway show began with single models walking down the catwalk, before a wall was lifted to show their brothers or sisters on the other side in the exact same outfits.
The creative director described his inspiration by stating, “Twinsburg plays this game, producing a tension in the relationship between original and copy. As if by magic, clothes duplicate. They seem to lose their status of singularity.” [8]
For S/S 2023, Domenico Dolce and Stefano Gabbana teamed up with Kim Kardashian, who they describe as "the ultimate muse". With Kardashian playing the role of 'collection curator', the trio went through the brand's '90s and '00s archives, selecting some of her favourite pieces, and looks that they felt were inspired by the reality TV star. Many of these archive “selects” were then slightly tweaked and repurposed to make a new collection exploring the most "authentic DNA" of Dolce & Gabbana.
"If it is true that fashion moves forward in search of ever-new expressions, when creativity is firmly rooted in its identity it knows how to transcend time and space," explained the show notes. "Thus, even when it is rethought, repurposed, reinterpreted through the eyes of the present and the consciousness of the past, it retains its most genuine nature while managing to speak to many different generations." [2]
If the designers did find it in themselves to repurpose existing archival D&G pieces, then we applaud them. In an industry often slammed for its waste and constant need for “new”, we love seeing a brand bring back old pieces and make them new again–even if it’s in the name of a Kardashian kollab (see what we did there?).
Using 87% conscious materials for her S/S 2023 collection, the British designer was making a major move for sustainability with hopes that it would go unnoticed. According to an article in The Guardian, the designer shared backstage after the show, “If I’m doing my job right, you shouldn’t see any of the sustainability. It should just look like the most luxurious, glamorous show. I don’t want it to look like sustainable fashion – I want it to look sexy and effortless and easy.”
The one person McCartney was hoping would notice? That would be Bernand Arnault, the chairman and chief executive of the LVMH luxury goods company and the third richest man in the world. LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, commonly known as LVMH, is a French holding multinational corporation and conglomerate specializing in luxury goods, owning brands such as Louis Vuitton, Fendi, Givenchy, Bvlgari, Dom Perignon, and Moët & Chandon, to name just a few. McCartney hoped Arnault would notice that the elegant baguette-shaped S-Wave “leather” shoulder bags (pictured below) were made from a grape-based leather alternative.
But not just from any grapes, McCartney was trying to convince Arnault that the grape skins from LVMH vineyards – which encompass 13 estates across four continents – could become the raw material for more leather-alternative fashion. [4]
How amazing would it be if grapes used to produce Dom Perignon could be recycled into leather for products across a variety of LVMH’s many fashion houses? Personally, we’d love to see it!
Is there anything she can’t do? The 76-year-old singer strutted down the outdoor runway at Paris' Stade Jean-Bouin at Balmain’s Paris Fashion Week show, sporting a latex bodysuit with sharp shoulders and a plunging neckline. At the end of the show, she joined Balmain designer Olivier Rousteing on stage and made their way down the runway as they closed out the show to her 1999 anthem "Strong Enough." Guests welcomed the veteran superstar’s cameo and erupted in cheers, with many standing to dance and sing along.
Balmain head designer, Rousteing, called Cher the "ultimate trailblazer" in a press release, before announcing that she would be the face of the label’s new Blaze bag collection campaign. [3]
And there you have our top moments from the Spring-Summer 2023 Fashion Weeks. You can shop all these mentioned designers and more at www.luxsecondchance.com. Happy shopping!
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Salvatore Ferragamo - The Rainbow Sandal
Just as the ruby slippers of Dorothy from The Wizard of Oz, played by Hollywood legend Judy Garland, the name of the actress is associated with another iconic footwear designed by Salvatore Ferragamo. Ferragamo, who came to Hollywood from Florence, Italy, opened his store in 1923 and was considered a shoemaker to the stars.
In 1938, Salvatore introduced the Rainbow Sandal, crafted specifically for Garland. The Rainbow sandals were a tribute to her signature song “Over the Rainbow” performed in the 1939 American musical fantasy film The Wizard of Oz. [1] The original design was produced in kidskin leather with a layered cork sole and featured a towering platform heel covered in rows of colourful suede. [2] It is notable that the shoe was very innovative as it was made of cork due to embargoes and shortages of materials on the brink of the Second World War.
As one of the most famous shoes produced throughout his extensive career, Ferragamo’s Rainbow Sandal went on to become an icon of 20th century footwear design. So much that the designer’s namesake brand recently re-launched the colourful heel with a sustainable update. Rainbow Future, a hand-finished platform in veritable wood, is made with organic crocheted cotton, which is certified in accordance with Global Organic Textile Standard criteria. The leather lining is finished with no carbon dioxide emission or water consumption. [4] Museo Ferragamo had it on display at their exhibition “Sustainable Thinking”.
The Victoria & Albert Museum in London has a pair of the original 1930s rainbow-hued suede wedge sandals.
Gucci - The Horsebit Loafers
Although House of Gucci first started as a leather goods company producing luggage and handbags in 1922, it expanded into shoes in 1953, along with the international expansion led by the founder Guccio Gucci’s son, Aldo Gucci.
Visionary Aldo noted the style of loafer’s popularity among the country’s affluent class and had an idea to create a pair for the Gucci brand, embellished with their signature metal horsebits, that tapped into an equestrian mythology and style of the company. An immediate hit among movie stars, the fabulously wealthy and aspiring style aficionados alike, the horsebit loafer was one of the first examples of casual luxury. [5] Ivy League universities students, Wall Street traders, Hollywood stars and celebrities today - all have loved the classic Horsebit loafer.
The Horsebit motif itself became a detail that was added to a variety of Gucci accessories, from prints on scarves to jewelry. According to Karen Homer, “with Tom Ford’s dramatic revival of the Gucci late in the 1990s, the Horsebit was given an ultra-stylized edge, appearing on high-heeled patent red loafers and as oversized fastenings on belts and bags” [7]
In 2013 to celebrate its 60th Anniversary, Creative Director Frida Giannini released a 1953 Horsebit Anniversary collection with a wide selection of new materials, colours, textures, and hardware finishes. As well she dedicated an entire exhibition to the shoe at Gucci Museo in Florence, featuring original illustrations and never-before-seen archival images of celebrities. [6]
The shoe has become such a great piece of fashion history, that Metropolitan Museum of Arts in New York City has the original model from 1953 in their permanent collection. Next year, in 2023, the horsebit loafer turns 70 years old so expect grand celebrations, Gucci - style.
Valentino - The Rockstud
Valentino Garavani Rockstud shoe style was first introduced in the Valentino Fall/Winter 2010 collection, in a style of a low heel slingback pump, and has instantly become a modern classic. Over 10 years later, it has not slowed down and keeps selling out every season.
In an interview with Style.com, Valentino creative directors at the time, Maria Grazia Chiuri (now Creative Director of Dior) and Pierpaolo Piccioli (the Creative Director of the brand today) revealed that—since the Rockstud style launched in 2010—the brand’s sales have more than doubled, with the previous year’s revenue alone getting a 36% boost thanks to a massive increase in accessories sales.[20]
Apparently, the rockstud motif is meant to represent the “bugnatos”, which are the details of the stones seen on palazzo-style buildings in Rome, where the brand's creative direction is based [20].The rockstud shoes vary in colours and materials, style and heel, depending on the collection, providing something for every personality and individual style. From permanent and classic beige and black, there are all the colours of the rainbow including a rainbow colourway too, along with camouflage, leopard and lace. From classic ballerina flats to caged heels, from classic leather pumps to PVC trendiest sandals - Rockstud has something to offer to all the fashionistas. According to a fan, Nicky Hilton, 'The reason for the enduring popularity of Rockstuds is in their detail,' she said. 'They come in metallic gold and silver and a multitude of colours, standing out just enough to make an outfit look dynamic.” [21]
Despite being so characteristic of the brand, Valentino struggles to trademark it at the U.S. Patent and Trademark Office. In 2020 Trademark Office stated that “square studs are too common to become the trademark of a single brand. In his response to this rejection, in a 227-page long response, Valentino's lawyers also cited Christian Louboutin's famous 2011 lawsuit against Saint Laurent” [22] in their infamous red bottoms battle.
For Spring 2021 collection Piccioli updated the classic style with a giant super-sized version of Rockstud on shoes and bags. Big and bold version is called ‘Roman Stud’ [27]. Thus the motif still proves to be the company’s bestseller.
Christian Louboutin - The Red Bottom shoes
The show stopping footwear by French designer Christian Louboutin are so popular that the shoes with a red sole are called just Louboutins among their clients and fans. But how has a shoe turned into a “louboutin”? Apparently, like so many great things in history, from sourdough to penicillin, it happened by accident.
The shoemaker was working on a pair of shoes, inspired by Andy Warhol’s painting “Flowers”. When the prototype with a pink upper and a heel adorned with a blossom-shaped motif arrived to the studio, Christian Louboutin felt like something was missing. According to the designer, “The shoe lacked energy”. [9] At that moment he noticed that his assistant was painting her nails red, which inspired the idea to paint to sole of the shoe red! This little detail helped Louboutin to distinguish himself from other footwear designers, becoming a symbol of luxury, opulence and sexuality.
Louboutin red even has its own colour code with the Institute of Colour, Pantone 18-1663 TPX [9]. From the third attempt, the designer trademarked this signature red soles of the shoe which led to an infamous lawsuit with Yves Saint Laurent, who also designed a shoe with a red sole in 2011, although it was a fully red coloured shoe. After a long battle, “The US Court of Appeal ruled in favour of Louboutin, recognizing the originality with which he had placed the colour red in a context that seemed unusual on a shoe. He then intentionally tied the colour to his products, creating an identifying mark firmly associated with his brand” [9]
Louboutins have become very popular among celebrities, from Hollywood divas to rappers. In 2017 rapper Cardi B’s debut hit song was a shout-out to the covetable shoes. Her number one debut song “Bodak Yellow” celebrated scarlet soles with a line: "These expensive, these is red bottoms, these is bloody shoes”. According to Racked, “Cardi’s boosted the brand’s pop cultural currency in a big way”. [10] They reference a report from Business of Fashion and Lyst, claiming that "searches for the luxury label’s heels have increased by a staggering 217 percent since “Bodak Yellow” first hit the airwaves” and Cardi is also listed as having accumulated $4.5 million USD in media value for the company [11]. This unofficial fashion relationship culminated in 2020, when the designer virtually presented Cardi with FN’s Style Influencer of the Year Award [26].
Saint Laurent - Tribute Shoes
This pair of shoes from the French brand is so remarkable, that has become part of the collection of Victoria & Albert Museum in London and was featured in their exhibition “Shoes: Pleasure and Pain”.
The shoe design was created by Francesco Russo and has become a staple shoe style of mid- 2000’s. According to the museum’s exhibition label, “the ‘Tribute’ sandal shows the influence of fetish footwear in its design with its high heel, patent leather and deep platform under the toes. It is strikingly similar in shape to shoes worn for pole-dancing; the heel used to grip the pole and the platform allowing greater height and providing a firmer footing on which to launch the body into a spin. The ‘Tribute’ took the early 21st century trend for high heels to an extreme” [12].
The shoe design came to symbolize the sexiness of the decade, ruled by platform shoes and skin-tight bandage dresses. The popularity of the Tribute lies in its ability to give women extra height along with the relative comfort. The thick platform under the toes meant that the heel could be much higher without angling the foot at too great a pitch. It gave women a sense of power with the ability to walk confidently in shoes that added up to 14 centimetres to their stature. [23] This has been probably the most popular sandal of the decade, seen on celebrities on red carpets in mid ‘00s, from Jennifer Lopez to Beyonce just to name a few. Today it is available in variety of colours, materials and styles - from original platform sexy shoes to much more casual and comfortable flat slides sandals.
Stuart Weitzman - Nudist sandal
Another celebrity favourite shoe is a Nudist sandal by Stuart Weitzman, which designer himself called “the little black dress of shoes” [13]. Around 2013 this minimalistic sleek shoes appeared on almost every glamorous red-carpet event. Thanks to its barely-there silhouette, a super-sleek, sky-high heel, and slim straps, this shoes are so versatile that it can be worn with absolutely everything. It is also very flattering as it elongated the legs yet remain comfortable.
"It happened because there was a need for it," designer Stuart Weitzman shared with InStyle magazine in 2017. He said, ”Too many celebrities would change their dress at the last minute and those wonderful shoes we made won't go with the new outfit. We needed to have a shoe simple enough that it could go with literally everything”. [13]
Today the Nudist sandal comes in a variety of heels lengths and shapes (from stiletto to a block heel), colours and materials, even with embellishments options. According to the official website, “The success of the NUDIST went on to inspire an entire collection. Starting with the lower-heeled NUDISTSONG sandals and the NEARLYNUDE block-heel sandals, the NUDIST Collection has expanded to include new innovations in a variety of heel heights, colors and materials, as well as special occasion standouts that draw upon the minimalist sensibility of our iconic NUDIST sandals”. [25] Yet, the most classic ones definitely come in black, beige and silver - the ones, originally created for glamorous red carpet affairs.
Manolo Blahnik - Hangisi
Manolo Blahnik has many memorable designs of his shoes but nothing will compare in popularity with the iconic Hangisi pump, that gained a cult status and became a favourite wedding shoe of fashionistas after Mr.Big proposed with it to Carrie Bradshaw in the “Sex and The City” movie, just like a prince to Cinderella.
The shoe was created in 2008 and Mr.Blahnik in his interview to Footwear News confessed that “he dreamed up the style after a trip to Palermo, Italy” where the designer went to see an exhibition by the Italian portraitist Giovanni Boldini. “He painted European society ladies in the late 19th and early 20th centuries, and I noticed some of them had buckles on their shoes,” Blahnik said. There are also echoes of the traditional North African baboosh slippers, immortalized by the French artist Eugène Delacroix in “Women of Algiers,” the designer recalled, noting that they were “in a state of ecstasy in a harem.” [14] It also has been reported, that the inspiration for the court shoe was derived from the footwear worn by Napoleon I, Josephine, and Pauline Bonaparte [15]. So all those inspiration references combined, the consumers have received one of the most covetable shoe of today.
The name for the shoe, “Hangisi”, has no particular meaning. The word “Hangisi” means “Which one?” in Turkish. The designer chose it just because he thought it sounded romantic. [16]
In 10 years of its success, the Hangisi style has evolved into boots, mules, d’Orsays and flats. It has been produced in over 100 materials and colorways, as well as in seven heel heights. “It’s torture — it’s a horror story. It just goes on and on,” joked the designer in 2018, the Hangisi’s 10th anniversary year. “It’s one of those things that I cannot explain, but I do thank God for it. I never do things thinking they are going to be iconic. It was just a coincidence.” [14]
Chanel - Two-toned slingbacks
While Coco Chanel started her company in 1910 selling hats, the brand’s shoe line was launched in 1957. That year she designed the two-tone slingback shoes and they became so popular that for 65 years they have been reissued up until today. According to the legend, Chanel made them two-coloured with a high contrasting black toe cap to create a visual effect - to visually shorten a foot while elongating a leg, without being uncomfortable in high heels.
However, the other popular Chanel shoes - ballerina flats - were created not by her, but by Karl Lagerfeld for the Spring Summer 1984 collection. They were inspired by the classic slingbacks, that Mademoiselle Chanel designed herself. The ad campaigns were shot by Helmut Newton, featuring Ines de la Fressange, who came to embody Parisian chic at its best.
The brand Chanel comments that the ballerina flats were “Inspired by the world of dance so dear to Gabrielle Chanel – who advocated comfort and freedom of movement above all else – the ballerina is today a fundamental in Chanel’s stylistic grammar” [17]
Since then, the shoes have been created in a variety of materials, colours and variations, however the original beige-black leather combination remains the most iconic and popular, signifying the timelessness that the brand stands for.
Roger Vivier - Pilgrim Buckle Shoes
While some credit that Roger Vivier’s contribution to fashion was an invention of a modern day stiletto, it is still considered arguable [18]. However, what is undeniable is that the design that he is greatly remembered for is a Pilgrim Buckle shoe.
In the 1950’s Roger Vivier worked alongside Christian Dior, and then under the Creative direction of Yves Saint Laurent, who was heading the House of Dior after Monsieur Dior’s passing. After starting his own company, Yves Saint Laurent kept on collaborating with the shoemaker. Thus, the Pilgrim shoes were designed in 1963, in collaboration with Saint Laurent [19] for the couturier’s famous Mondrian collection. The shoes coordinated perfectly with the square shaped dress – black patent leather with a square “Pilgrim” buckle, low heeled, almost flat and low-cut at the front to make the legs appear longer yet adding that youthful twist.
It was a French film actress Catherine Deneuve, who in 1967 was wearing Pilgrim shoes in her classic movie Belle Du Jour by Luis Bunuel, along with the suits by Saint Laurent. She has made them extremely popular. 55 years later this is still one of the most popular styles by Roger Vivier company. And the shoe is so connected with the legendary actress, that in 2018 she has become an official ambassador of the brand, starring in their Christmas commercial. [24]
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The proudly, privately owned company is notorious for being even more exclusive than its competitors. The brand’s limited number of boutiques helps Goyard bags and other goods retain their high value on the resale market.
]]>The proudly, privately owned company is notorious for being even more exclusive than its competitors. The brand’s limited number of boutiques helps Goyard bags and other goods retain their high value on the resale market.
Due to the fact that it performs well on the resale market, it is difficult to purchase directly from a Goyard supplier, and the simple nature of their most popular style–the St. Louis shopper tote–it’s no surprise that this model of bag is often replicated in the counterfeit market. This is why it is so important to shop through trusted resale retailers like Lux Second Chance. Authenticity is our obsession, which is why we love talking about authenticating your favorite luxury brands! So let’s dive into this month's star: Goyard!
We believe it makes sense to start off with the most evident examples of spotting a fake versus the real deal. The chevron Goyardine print is THE signature feature of the Goyard brand and is present on every single one of their styles. The trademark dot design and letters within the print should appear crisp and clear. Fake patterns and letters won’t be as crisp and may appear a little sloppier.
Due to the hand-screened nature of the authentic design, the print on the fabric of a real Goyard should feel slightly raised as you should be able to feel the individual bumps of each dot. This is due to the fact that the print has been printed three times, with three different layers on top of each other, creating somewhat of a 3D effect. Oftentimes a fake Goyard will be a printed design straight on the fabric itself, making the print appear flatter and two-dimensional.
Whether it’s a full handbag or even a card holder, oftentimes the most distinguishing factor of identifying a fake when compared to the real deal, is the vibrancy of the colour (or lack thereof). Counterfeit bags appear more dull, less vibrant, and less sharp than a real Goyard. In addition, on a fake Goyard, the parts of the pattern and letters that should be gold appear brown along with other less vibrant signifiers.
On the side seam of the St. Louis Tote, the print of the fabric should be continuous even through the side seam. Meaning, the side seam on the side of the bag does not interrupt the continuation of the pattern. On fakes, the pattern is not seamless where the front and back of the bag meet at the side seam.
On all St. Louis totes, the stitching thread colour is always contrasting, with the exception of black bags, which will have black stitching. Stitching on the seams and handles of the bags should be subtle and not deep set.
Heat stamping is one of the main things that distinguishes genuine luxury from fakes. On the inside of the pouchette of the St. Louis tote, the heat stamping is very discreet and uniform. Authentic Goyard heat stamping should only include three things: Goyard, Paris, Made in France (in that order and on three separate lines). On a fake, the heat stamping on the inside of the pouchette is very deep and the words could appear as varying sizes on each line.
The silver hardware button on the top of the pouchette should have the Goyard “G” on it, sitting straight on the flap. Some fakes will have this as well, but it may not appear straight. Depending on the type of bag, if a zipper is present, it should also be in silver hardware with the capital G, the same way it appears on the front button of the pouchette.
All authentic Goyard leather goods should have a serial number present on it. Depending on the year and model of the style, the location of the serial number varies. On the older versions of the St. Louis totes, the serial number appears on the inside of the pouchette. On later models, a real St. Louis tote will have a serial number embossed where the leather strap connects the detachable pouch (pouchette) to the purse. On a Goyard card holder/wallet, the serial number is listed on the inside side seam in the front pocket.
The serial number should consist of three letters and six digits.
The font of the serial number should be san serif and quite discreet, clear, and consistent.
A lot of times, counterfeiters will use pictures as a reference for their knock-off designs instead of the real deal, which means their dimensions and ratios are sometimes off. You can see examples of this if you are comparing an authentic card holder beside a fake, or an authentic pochette bag beside a fake. The sizes will vary compared to the real deal. Even something as subtle as the dimensions can automatically make something look cheaper.
This is also true for the weight of a product. Sometimes people associate heavier to mean better quality. This is not the case for the St. Louis tote. An authentic St. Louis tote will feel lighter than a fake, even though you can tell the fabric is a higher quality.
The lining of the St. Louis tote is a high-quality cotton twill. Many bags feature a striking mustard yellow colour in the lining. This lining colour is considered a Goyard signature for bag linings.
On something like a card holder or wallet, an authentic product would be lined in a pebbled leather (see pictured). A fake Goyard card holder is likely lined in a cheaper silk imitation fabric. Similarly, the leather used on the straps of an authentic Goyard is a pebbled or grained leather as opposed to a smooth leather, which you will see on fake Goyards.
We’ve saved this section for last as it is very dependent on the previous owner of the product, if you are purchasing from the resale market.
An authentic Goyard, if still maintained properly and kept together, should come with a yellow dust bag, yellow cloth (in place of a dust bag for card holders), the Goyard book, and tag.
As previously mentioned, dust bags for St. Louis Totes are yellow and will display the same Goyard logo and font that you see on the heat stamp. Of course, if the product comes with all or some of these additional elements, it not only gives you more opportunity to verify the authenticity, but it also holds better resale value in the secondary market.
And there you have it! With these subtle, yet distinguishable elements you can feel rest assured that you’ve made an authentic purchase. However, if you’re shopping at Lux Second Chance, we’ve already done the work for you!
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There are a whole slew of celebrities and socialites who don’t mind practicing the common taboo of outfit repeating in the name of sustainability and conscious fashion consumption. Sure, outfit repeating your favourite casual look or even a mid-level formal ensemble isn’t the worst thing in the world. However, outfit repeating on the red carpet or at a highly publicized event would have been considered social suicide in the past. So as a nod of appreciation (and encouragement) here are some of our favourite offenders.
Helen Mirren has been known to outfit repeat on occasion… or six. Throughout the 2010’s, Mirren was seen wearing the same floral Dolce & Gabbana dress to six events — the Hitchcock premiere in 2012, Empire Film Awards in 2013, the RHS Chelsea Flower Show in 2013, the Prince's Trust Celebrate Success Awards in 2013, the Roundabout Spring Gala in 2014, and a Tony celebration in 2015 [1]. It’s safe to say she has gotten her moneysworth out of that frock at this point.
Arguably, the biggest red carpet of them all–The Academy Awards– is surprisingly the biggest stage for famous outfit repeats. Oscars veteran Jane Fonda re-wore an Elie Saab gown she previously wore to the 2014 Cannes Film Festival to the 2020 Academy Awards with a discounted coat she declared would be the last piece of clothing she ever bought [1].
No stranger to the awards circuit, actress Laura Dern has worn her black Armani Privé dress at both the 2013 Oscars Vanity Fair After Party and at the 2020 Oscars Vanity Fair After Party, but with a new accessory: an Oscar for Best Actress in a Supporting Role (Marriage Story).
Of course, rewearing is only the offense of female celebrities. In 2020, actor Joaquin Phoenix was making the rounds of the awards circuit for his acclaimed performance in Joker, for which he won a Golden Globe, BAFTA, SAG Award, and Oscar. An outspoken environmentalist and animal rights activist, Phoenix chose to wear the same black Stella McCartney tux to all these awards shows, plus the Critics' Choice Awards [1].
Stella McCartney was a perfect fit for Phoenix, as the company never uses leather, skin, fur, or feathers. The brand also uses a tool called the Environmental Profit and Loss (EP&L) to measure its impact on the environment, including "greenhouse gas emissions, water use, water pollution, land use, air pollution, and waste," according to the company's website [2].
So maybe not all outfit repeats are purely for sustainability or convenience purposes. The best example of this is actress and comedian Tiffany Hadish’s long-standing gag of the now infamous white Alexander McQueen dress. Haddish has now worn this dress on six occasions, all for very public events and for the sake of the great ongoing joke. The second time Haddish wore this dress was for her hosting appearance on Saturday Night Live where she joked, “I don’t give a dang about no taboo! I spent a lot of money on this dress. This dress cost way more than my mortgage. This is a $4,000 dress! I’m gonna wear this dress multiple times!”.
And that’s exactly what she did! Not only did she bring the dress out for two more sketches that night, but she also wore it to present an award at the 2018 Academy Awards, then again at the 2018 MTV Movie and TV Awards, her appearance on My Next Guest Needs No Introduction With David Letterman in 2019, and her People's 2021 Beautiful Issue photoshoot. We hope this comedy queen has inspired others to intentionally ditch the old faux pas and wear what you want!
As a unique alternative to a direct outfit repeat, we often see celebrities get creative with their rewears and modify the look to fit current trends, changing bodies, or to simply make it “new” again. At the 2018 Oscars, actress Rita Moreno re-wore the gown she wore when she won her first Oscar in 1962[1], featuring an adapted neckline.
Of course, we can’t mention outfit repeaters without mentioning the queen–or should we say Duchess–of the rewear herself, Catherine the Duchess of Cambridge. We all know royals have all the money in the world to build a wardrobe so vast they would never have to rewear an outfit in their lifetime. However, we also know that the modern royals are keen to shift the old narrative of wastefulness and opulence to a more conscientious and sustainable approach. The Duchess of Cambridge has been known to grace a red carpet with a rewear from time to time, and similar to our last example, has even shifted a design ever so slightly to make it work for multiple occasions.
A way to get around a direct outfit repeat is to appreciate a past look by opting for a vintage ensemble. This popular practice has created even more momentum in the resale market. Shopping vintage for the red carpet is not only a sophisticated ode to fashions of years past, but also a great sustainable choice.
We can’t talk about vintage appreciators without mentioning the queen herself, Zendaya. With almost too many instances to mention, Zendaya loves her vintage looks and with every designer wanting to dress her, she has her pick of the crop. Most recently, Zendaya rocked a vintage Bob Mackie look for the Time 100 red carpet early this June.
Zendaya credits it all to her stylist, Law Roches, who is a vintage collector himself. Roach consistently works to create stand-out moments on the red carpet using archival fashion. An article from Fashionista explains, “With Zendaya, specifically, he's often taken the opportunity to pay homage to iconic women and events in fashion history, like with the 1982 Yves Saint Laurent Haute Couture gown once owned by Ebony Fashion Fair founder Eunice Johnson for the Essence Black Women in Hollywood Awards, or the purple and green 2003 Versace from the BET Awards, which was originally worn by Beyoncé.” [3]
Earlier this year, Zendaya wore a red-and-green Balmain couture gown to the NAACP Image Awards. Designed by Pierre Balmain himself, the dress dates all the way back to 1956 [4] and we are honestly drooling over it!
Bella Hadid recently wore two vintage Versace looks for the 2022 Cannes International Film Festival. For one premiere, Hadid wore a 1987 black peplum dress designed by Gianna Versace himself. She paired the first vintage look with a second for the Cannes Anniversary Dinner wearing a Versace dress from their Fall 2001 Ready-to-Wear collection.
And the list goes on from there! We’re so encouraged to see this practice picking up serious steam over the past few years. To see all the other celebrities that are selecting pre-worn looks, check out this list here.
Now that you’ve seen celebrities successfully pull it off, it’s not so taboo to be an outfit repeater yourself or opt for vintage/resale options for your next event.
Dressing sustainable doesn’t always mean eco-friendly materials and niche brand choices. Sometimes sustainable fashion is as simple as utilizing what is already in your closet or purchasing pre-existing clothes through means of shopping vintage or resale.
And we have you covered there! Lux Second Chance is so proud to not only bring you your favourite designer accessories, but we now offer apparel on our site as well! Take this blog as inspiration when you’re scouting out your next look for a special occasion and start shopping at www.luxsecondchance.com to find your next designer resale look!
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Reading through March’s blog, we’re all envisioning ourselves arriving at a relaxing and warm destination, and so, we’ve got more luxury goodies to recommend for your next vacation!
]]>Reading through March’s blog, we’re all envisioning ourselves arriving at a relaxing and warm destination, and so, we’ve got more luxury goodies to recommend for your next adventure!
If you’re not already using it as a perfect carry on, then we know you’ve packed your Goyard St. Louis GM Tote in Sky Blue as your luxury beach bag. A staple for any high-end wardrobe, the Goyard Tote is even wipeable with mild soap and water! Nothing compares to this functional, year-round tote for traveling, site-seeing, and even beaching!
Perhaps your daytime activities involve staying on your toes, fitting in as many sites as you can, shopping whenever you get the chance, and keeping your valuables close at hand. If that’s the case, we know you’re still making your way around in style with your Gucci Belt White Leather Cross Body Bag. Wear it as a bumbag or a cross body bag and keep your wallet and phone ready at hand for those obligatory vacation selfies.
Once your full day of activities concludes, we know you’re taking in the best cuisine your destination has to offer and luxury cuisine calls for luxury accessories. Nothing quite says sophistication like a Chanel Classic Flap Bag. A Chanel timeless classic adds chic to any ensemble.
Is it safe to say the thing that takes up the most space in any suitcase is shoes? At least, that’s what we find! Unable to fold into space-saving ways, shoes cannot be the neglected accessories for any trip!
A given, of course, is a beach-ready pair of sandals! Our pick is the Chanel White/Black Espadrille Sandals. Show off your newly manicured toes in these easy slip ons–perfect for the pool, beach, or wandering around your warm destination.
Depending on the type of traveler that you are, you may need a trusty, but still fashionable pair of sneakers for roaming the local spots, sightseeing, or shopping. We recommend the Christian Dior D-Connect Beige Mesh Sneakers. Who said practical can’t still be high fashion? Certainly not us!
No packing is complete without a pair of kick-ass heels for those nights when you want to get *noticed*. Whether it’s a classy dinner with your travel companion, a swanky cocktail party at the resort, or a night on the town, the Versace White Leather Sandal Heels will pair effortlessly with any summery number you have packed for those warm night outs.
Speaking of summery numbers, our second last category on this list is a shameless plug. Lux Second Chance has recently launched a clothing section to provide you with your favorite brands, now beyond accessories!
We’re totally vacation ready with this Reformation Maxwell Jumpsuit in a red floral. Don’t you see yourself taking off on the back of a moped in Costa Rica in this jumpsuit? Or summering in the south of Spain with warm wind in your hair and sangria in your hand? Yes, we are getting carried away now…can you tell we’re a little stir crazy for adventure?!
Keeping with the theme of warm wind, tropical destinations, and summer adventures, these dresses will surely make for Instagram-worthy vacation outfits. The Mother of Pearl White Floral Print Shirtdress is the effortless luxury we all strive for on our sunny trips. But we’re also packing the HVN Black Comet Print Nora Dress for when we want to embrace our inner Audrey Hepburn while we summer in a warm and magical European destination. With a vintage silhouette, the fit-and-flare dress is crafted from satin-back silk-crepe for a lightweight feel and styled with a square neck that falls from adjustable slim shoulder straps. Pair it with your barely there Vera Wang black heeled sandals for a modern, feminine finish.
Of course, we cannot leave you without plugging our favorite eyewear currently available for purchase on our site. Depending on your personal style and OOTD (outfit of the day), here are some notable mentions to throw into any suitcase last minute.
The Cool Girl: Victoria Beckham Silver Mirrored Aviators are the staple for going incognito on any trip. The mirrored glass completes any disguise for the added touch of mystery.
The Classic: Ray-Ban Sunglasses in Tortoise Brown is a choice that can never go wrong. I mean, can you ever be wrong with Ray Bans? No…the answer is no.
The Old Hollywood Glam: Marni Geometric Frame Sunglasses is giving us top-down, driving in a 1960s convertible on the California coast. Do you envision these shades with a luxurious Hermès silk scarf neatly tied around our hair to keep our perfect tresses in place? Well we do and we’re living for this fantasy!
And there you have it! Our top picks for your next globetrotting adventure! Even without travel, if you live in the northern hemisphere, warmer weather is on the horizon. These trip-inspired accessories can serve you well in the forthcoming spring and summer months. So what are you waiting for?
Happy shopping, Luxers!
]]>So with the goal of getting as far away from our familiar neck of the woods as possible, we know that means some serious airport time. I dare say the dreaded airport almost seems…exciting now, doesn’t it?
The airport provides the promise of adventure ahead as well as the perfect space to debut your latest fashion accessories, both practical and maybe not so practical. If you’re like us, your first post-COVID vacation is the best excuse to shop for the perfect travel pieces, try out the latest trends, and treat yourself to some well deserved designer finds. After all, you got through a global pandemic in one piece, that’s no small feat.
When leaving the house to embark on the lengthy journey of airport wait times, terminal treks, and guaranteed air travel feet swelling, practical footwear is par for the course on long travel days. But who says practical footwear has to be plain or ugly? Not us! Take a look at these Valentino Garavani Gumboy Sneakers for a comfortable, yet stylish choice. Looking for a slip on option for the dreaded TSA check line? Take a look at these Celine Light Blue Leather Sneakers.
Just as important as the footwear you’ll wear is the luggage you’ll bring! Chances are you’re taking off for more than a weekend at this point, which means you’re bringing more than a carry on. The standard for luxury luggage is, of course, Louis Vuttion luggage. The Louis Vuitton Pegase 55 is the sleek and sophisticated must-have for anyone with a love for luxury that also only travels in style. Spacious enough to hold all your precious possessions, this piece can hold basically everything you may need for your holiday.
Of course, a carry on is just as crucial as well. This bag serves as a portal for your most treasured travel items, should you ever be separated from your checked luggage. The Gucci Web Nylon Weekender Bag has space for it all: makeup, books, magazines, chargers, headphones, travel documents, or a fresh pair of undies. With multiple compartments, sleek flat straps, and zipped closure, you’ll keep everything secure and organized.
For me personally, nothing is more essential than a chic bum bag or utility belt bag for the airport. Having your boarding pass, passport, and phone within fingers reach is imperative for easing through lines, check ins, and boarding. The Fendi Utility Belt Bag is the perfect companion for your phone and other small items to keep handy. Another personal favorite is this Chanel Vintage Bumbag in red caviar leather. Who said practical can’t be luxurious?
Another must-have is a great pair of designer shades. Whether they’re used to protect your retinas against the fluorescent lights of the terminal, hiding your napping eyes from the general public, or blocking the promising sunny rays as soon as you land in your destination, sunglasses are truly the all-purpose accessory for travel. These Tom Ford Brown Amarra Sunglasses are the perfect shades that will make you feel like a celebrity hiding from the airport paparazzi. Let us live the fantasy, okay? If you need to go even more incognito, then try these black Chloé Myrte Oversized Sunglasses.
Our last airport essential is a bit of a bonus. Not something that you would assume, but recently a travel article I browsed mentioned the importance of layers or a good scarf on your airport adventures. A scarf, preferably a good blanket scarf, can serve multiple purposes. Besides necessary warmth in sometimes chilly terminals or aircrafts, a scarf can also double as an airplane blanket or neck pillow. The Hermès Cashmere Reversible Scarf is wide enough to double as a small blanket and luxurious enough to provide neck comfort on a long haul flight. You’ll thank us later on this one!
Well if this exhaustive list hasn’t inspired you to book a last minute flight to an exciting destination, then we don’t know what will! This has really set us into full vacation mode, which is why we are bringing you part two next month. Stay tuned to hear our top picks of what we’re bringing with us on our sunny destinations with next month’s blog!
]]>If you’re like us, we’ll need to take things sloooowww and start at step one before we even dive into what the heck this has to do with luxury fashion. Consider this your crash course in NFTs as it relates to our number one love: fashion.
]]>Education is one of our core pillars here at Lux Second Chance. Okay, well maybe it isn’t, but staying up to date on the latest innovations and newsworthy investments has never been more important in this fast-paced digital age! We almost can’t keep up! Which brings us to today’s educational programming: NFTs and the Luxury Fashion Market 101.
If you’re like us, we’ll need to take things sloooowww and start at step one before we even dive into what the heck this has to do with luxury fashion. Consider this your crash course in NFTs as it relates to our number one love: fashion.
NFT stands for Non-Fungible Token, a cryptographic asset created through blockchain technology. It allows for the exchange of value through a medium that cannot be replicated [1].
To put it simply, The Verge explains, “‘Non-fungible’ more or less means that it’s unique and can’t be replaced with something else. For example, a bitcoin is fungible — trade one for another bitcoin, and you’ll have exactly the same thing. A one-of-a-kind trading card, however, is non-fungible. If you traded it for a different card, you’d have something completely different” [2].
NFTs are often traded in the metaverse and paid for by cryptocurrency.
All NFTs are controlled and accounted for on a blockchain distributed ledger, similar to cryptocurrencies like bitcoin and dogecoin. According to Investopia, “Blockchain is a type of shared database that differs from a typical database in the way that it stores information; blockchains store data in blocks that are then linked together via cryptography. As new data comes in, it is entered into a fresh block. Once the block is filled with data, it is chained onto the previous block, which makes the data chained together in chronological order. Different types of information can be stored on a blockchain, but the most common use so far has been as a ledger for transactions. In Bitcoin’s case, blockchain is used in a decentralized way so that no single person or group has control—rather, all users collectively retain control. Decentralized blockchains are immutable, which means that the data entered is irreversible. For Bitcoin, this means that transactions are permanently recorded and viewable to anyone.” [3]
In May 2019, top luxury brand LVMH Moët Hennessy Louis Vuitton, owner of some of the world’s biggest fashion brands such as Fendi, Dior, and Givenchy, were the first fashion company to make moves on leveraging blockchain-based tokens as a means of ensuring an item’s authenticity [1]. Blockchain technology acts as a ledger of all previous transactions on an item, which means you know exactly where it is coming from, if anyone had it before you, and that it is a legitimate product. All this information is irreversible, permanently recorded, and viewable to anyone, so it cannot be tampered with.
Enter the first blockchain company built specifically for luxury fashion: Aura. According to an article in Forbes, “Aura is a blockchain system that allows consumers to track the origins and lifecycle of their purchases. Having researched this topic at the Fashion Institute of Technology, a strong argument can be made that this knowledge is considered the most important to consumers in a customer-centric world. Another thing worth mentioning is how these fashion brands are able to protect the integrity of their intellectual property. Top brands leveraging NFTs back up their designs legally.”
NFTs also provide the opportunity to offer one of a kind, irreplaceable items to luxury customers. In 2021, Gucci introduced product offerings such as one of a kind sneakers as an NFT. Even luxury watch brands are promoting NFT auctions within the available platforms [1].
Currently, the best example of an NFT is when it is sold as a twin (digital product) of a physical one. This has been a common route that fashion brands have taken, especially because it still satisfies the physical need of a customer, while still adding the prestige and uniqueness of an NFT.
Thanks to the COVID-19 pandemic, the efforts to digitize in the fashion industry (and many other industries) has gone into hyperdrive.
Ralph Lauren recently partnered with South Korean social network and avatar simulation app, Zepeto, to create a virtual fashion collection and give users the opportunity to dress their avatars in exclusive products, shop a virtual Ralph Lauren store, and change their “skins”. Similarly, Gucci has created digital assets for gaming platforms, Roadblocks, Pokemon GO, and Animal Crossing [4].
As this is brand new territory for fashion brands, they have to collaborate with outside firms and digital designers to craft their pieces into digital assets. For example, Dolce & Gabbana worked with UNXD to create their digital collection while Rebecca Minkoff collaborated with Dematerialize to work with their designer and take the products from design all the way to the blockchain [4].
These are the efforts luxury fashion brands are taking to enhance their virtual world (or metaverse) branding–something that was not even slightly important ten years ago–all while taking in a completely new revenue stream. Especially as these digital assets are a small, tiny fraction of what it costs to create the physical one, and yet they are able to sell them at comparable pricing. It’s mind-blowing, really.
You’re probably thinking what we’re thinking; what’s the point of owning a digital Chanel handbag? Well–like any good Chanel handbag–it’s an *investment*. NFT buyers are interested in the investment potential of their virtual fashion items. Depending on the NFT, more so in the digital art world, NFTs can sometimes be traded for well over double their original “price”.
Currently NFT shoppers are early adopters of this new technology. It’s hard to guarantee exactly what will come of the NFT industry, but many believe it is the new frontier and it’s here to stay.
As an article in Forbes points out, “The reality is that increased adoption tends to take on a life of its own, and NFTs are currently in the early stages of becoming a major part of our lives.” Tal Lifshitz, a partner and co-chair of the cryptocurrency, digital asset, and blockchain group at Miami-based Kozyak Tropin & Throckmorton (KTT) goes on to explain, “Increased adoption means exponentially increased value and utility,” said Lifshitz. “If you’re the only person who owns a cell phone, it’s useless. If two people own cell phones, there’s some value. If billions of people have cell phones, you need a cell phone. That’s the impact of increased adoption. That’s the potential future of NFTs.”
The metaverse is not regulated like the real world. Even though blockchain technology looks to provide full transparency and authentication to purchases, digital artists are finding their way into the counterfeit industry [4].
Trademark and copyright issues are still not regulated in the world of metaverse. For example, in 2021 digital artist Mason Rothshield launched the Metabirkin, a digital piece that depicts multiple versions of the beloved Hermes Birkin bag. The metabirkin isn’t a handbag, but rather just a form of digital art. These designs were available for purchase on OpenSea [4].
Obviously Hermes has a registered trademark protecting the design, the name, and even the silhouette of the Birkin bag from imitators. However, trademarks on physical characteristics doesn’t mean that it will cover or apply on digital assets. This is a non-regulated gray area for both brands and digital creators [4].
In the virtual world, it is difficult to determine right and wrong. Many have argued that Hermés is just angry they didn't think of it first. The metaverse is currently projected to become a one trillion dollar industry, so it might be in the brand's best interest to come to an agreement with Rothchild or team up with another artist, rather than shutting down the project entirely. One thing is for sure, and that is that luxury brands will need to keep an eye on the digital sphere to grow [6].
These threats are on top of the potential of cyber hacks and the other possible risks that are inherently involved in cyber security as opposed to real world tangible items.
The future is now, and luxury brands are quickly picking up their feet to jump onto the metabandwagon (yes, we just made that up) before it’s too late.
For now, you will find us with the other luddites and “old school” fashionistas shopping physical fashion items at luxsecondchance.com. Happy shopping!
Sources:
Christian Dior was born on January 21, 1905 in a seaside town of Granville on the coast of Normandy in a wealthy family. His father, Maurice Dior, was a fertilizer manufacturer. He and his wife Madeleine had five children, where Christian was the second. When he was 5 years old, the family moved to Paris. Madeleine Dior was famous for hosting excellent dinner parties, with butlers in white gloves, and praised for her exquisite taste in design and flowers. She loved flowers and became an exemplar gardener, when the family moved back to Grenville at the outbreak of the World War I in 1914. Madeleine Dior had a great influence on her son Christian, on building his taste and his aesthetic preferences.
According to the book Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams (Rizzoli Electa), “Nature and gardens were one of Christian Dior’s lifelong passions. As a boy, he would spend hours in the garden, and he helped his mother design the gardens at his family home in Granville, France, which he credited as a prominent influence on his work. He imagined or sketched many dresses in the garden, where he found inspiration in flowers, the changing of the seasons, and the rebirth of nature. From embroidery motifs to the flowerlike silhouettes of the New Look, flowers have bloomed in Dior’s creations” [1]. He even said, ‘I designed clothes for flower-like women’ and ‘after women, flowers are the most lovely thing God gave to the world’.
Although his parents had hopes of him becoming a diplomat, Dior was very artistic. Upon leaving school, Dior took over a small art gallery which his father bought for him, where he and a friend sold work by artists including Pablo Picasso. But after the Great Depression and his mother’s untimely death, he had to close the gallery. He was selling his own fashion illustrations to Le Figaro, the oldest newspaper in France, and to renowned fashion houses, including Schiaparelli and Balenciaga, and went to work with a fashion designer Robert Piguet until he was called up for military service in 1940. He finished the service in 1942 and began working for couturier Lucien Long, where he and Pierre Balmain were the primary designers. At the same time his dear sister Catherine, with who he was very close, served as a member of the French Resistance, was captured by the Gestapo, and sent to the Ravensbrück concentration camp, where she was incarcerated until her liberation in May 1945. After the end of the war, Catherine Dior spent the remainder of her life working with flowers: first as a flower trader in Paris, then as a flower farmer in Provence for the production of fragrance.
In 1946 Marcel Boussac, a successful entrepreneur, cotton-fabric magnate, known as the richest man in France, invited Dior to design for Philippe et Gaston, a Paris fashion house. Christian Dior refused, wishing to make a fresh start under his own name rather than reviving an old brand. On the 8th of December 1946, with Boussac's backing, Dior founded his fashion house but officially, the house of Dior considers 1947 to be the year of conception as that was when Dior showed his first collection. On the 12th of February 1947 he presented his first collection, named Corolle (literally the botanical term corolla or circlet of flower petals in English). But it was an American journalist, Carmel Snow, who baptized it as a “New Look”. She said: “Your dresses have such a new look!”, epitomized by the shapely Bar suit. On returning to the United States, she was the one who championed this new French fashion genius, “compelling American journalists and buyers, who had stopped following the diktats of Parisian couturiers during the war, to turn their gaze back to Paris” [1]. As Christian Dior was crowned with global renown, Paris’s role as the leading light of international fashion was restored. Following this success Dior opened his first subsidiary in 1948 in New York.
Alongside his premiere collection, in 1947 Christian Dior also presented his first perfume, Miss Dior, as he felt that a women’s outfit was never complete without perfume. The salons of the Corolla aka The New Look presentation were perfumed with Miss Dior, which smelled of a concoction of rose, gardenia, and jasmine with moss. The first fragrance famously was named after his beloved sister, Catherine. According to the legend, she entered the room while her brother Christian was brainstorming names for the perfume, when his muse Mizza Bricard noticed her and announced "Ah, here's Miss Dior!", and Christian allegedly replied "Miss Dior: now there's a name for my perfume!"
And this is how the House of Dior was born and it became the greatest Parisian couture house at its time! The New Look became extremely popular, its full-skirted silhouette influencing other fashion designers well into the 1950s, and Dior gained a number of prominent clients from Hollywood to the United States, royalty and the European aristocracy. Rita Hayworth, Grace Kelly, Princess Margaret and Marlene Dietrich - all loved his gowns. The latest took Dior on set with her: “No Dior, no Dietrich,” she told Alfred Hitchcock before filming Stage Fright with him in 1950 [1]. The House of Dior is tightly intertwined with the movie industry up until today, when so many actresses get their Academy Awards in the gowns with his name on the tag, from Elizabeth Taylor in 1961 to Jennifer Lawrence in 2013.
Christian Dior had been working for his fashion house for only a decade - he died of a sudden heart attack while on a spa vacation in Montecatini, Italy, on the 24th of October 1957. He was only 52 years old.
YVES SAINT LAURENT for CHRISTIAN DIOR
Young aspiring designer Yves Mathieu Saint Laurent was introduced to Christian Dior at the age of nineteen, and took a post as his assistant in the studio in June 1955, leaving behind Ecole de la Chambre Syndicale only after one term there. He dropped his middle name and became known as Yves Saint Laurent. After Monsieur Dior’s sudden death in 1957 he was named the new head designer, which came to a surprise as he was only twenty one years old. Although, according to Saint Laurent’s mother, Dior named Yves as his successor to her in a private conversation.
His debut collection as the head of the couture house introduced a new silhouette for Dior, named “Trapeze” as it ignored the waistline - a total opposition of Christian Dior’s emphasized waist and signature New Look silhouette. Yves made the clothes free-flowing and gave them youth and spirit by lightning them up and shortening the hemline. Despite the commercial success, there were inner tensions in the company. In 1960, the young designer was conscripted to the French Army to fight in the Algerian War of Independence. That was an excuse for Dior’s top management to let him go, as they didn’t receive his last collections well with too much of a youth spirit and colour black [3]. Marc Bohan was named the head designer, and Yves was offered to design ready-to-wear for Dior in London, which he saw as a humiliation and refused. From the money won from the House of Dior in a lawsuit for a breach of contract and backing from American millionaire Jesse Mack Robinson [3], Yves Saint Laurent opened his own fashion house, which celebrates 60 years in 2022.
Marc Bohan stood the test of time and was in charge of the House of Dior’s creations until 1989. For three decades, he was the longest-serving Creative Director of the House of Dior, replaced by Gianfranco Ferré, and then John Galliano took the reins in 1996. In 2011 Raf Simmons was appointed as a Creative Director of the House of Dior. Currently, since 2016, for the first time the fashion house has been run under a female direction of Maria Grazia Chiuri, an Italian designer, previously working for Valentino. Her use of Chimamanda Ngozi Adichie’s essay “We Should All Be Feminists” in the presentation and literally, on T-shirts, of the Spring–Summer 2017 collection has became a signature and motto of our times. She keeps women at the heart of her creative process, thus, as writers believe, honoring the codes of Dior [1] while offering a new vision of fashion for a new generation.
ROGER VIVIER for CHRISTIAN DIOR
Another notable artistic connection of Christian Dior was his ten-year collaboration with a shoemaker Roger Vivier. It began in 1953 when Dior saw in Vivier a designer whose aesthetic evokes his own. Their unique harmony was acknowledged by Christian Dior when he placed Vivier’s name alongside his own on the label of Dior footwear, an exceptional honour as at that time fashion collaborations and productions were functioning under licensing deals. Prior to 1953 Dior had his shoes made by a variety of shoemakers including Georges Mad, David Evins and the celebrated Andre Perugia, but he was too famous in his own right at that time. What Dior needed was a shoes designer with superior skills and natural elegance who should work for him directly. The shy, elegant and supremely talented Roger Vivier was a perfect fit [2].
The first shoes Vivier created for Dior debuted in July with the Autumn-WInter collection of 1953. According to the edition “Dior by Roger Vivier” (Rizzoli) Vivier’s shoes embodied age romance and luxury of France’s aristocratic past, yet remained firmly modern in both their architecture and ornamentation. The shoes were very popular on both continents. In 1956, the US custom-made shoes cost $150 (around $1400 today) while pret-a-porter Dior models from Paris adapted to the American foot were available for a fraction of the price at $35, which is around $325 today [2].
Under Yves Saint Laurent’s direction, Vivier renewed his contract with the House of Dior for another 5 years, and after that expired, the shoemaker maintained relationship with Saint Laurent and even designed now-iconic Pilgrim buckle shoes for his famous Mondrian Collection in 1965.
Fun fact- before Vivier turned his full attention to Dior, he had a very important commission to complete - the coronation shoes for the future Queen of England, Elizabeth II.
ICONIC HANDBAGS
Although Christian Dior is a couture house and focuses on fashion, it produces desired and covetable handbags. Let’s have a look at the history of their most important current purses.
As we discussed earlier in our blogs, the most famous Dior handbag is Lady Dior, popularized and named after Lady Diana. According to the fashion legend, during Princess Diana’s visit to Paris in 1995 for Cezanne Art Exhibition, the First Lady of France, Madame Bernadette Chirac, gave Lady Di, the latest handbag design by Dior, as a diplomatic gift. Created in 1994 under the creative direction of Gianfranco Ferre, the tote was first called “Chouchou,” which means “Favorite” in French. Lady Diana fell instantly in love with the bag, and as the most photographed woman in the world, the bag was highly photographed on the arm of one of the world’s most beloved woman of all time. Marie Claire magazine reports that the late Princess loved it so much, she ordered the bag in every colour. She has been photographed wearing the variation of the bag multiple times, for official, gala and state visits. Most memorably she paired it with a tangerine Versace suit on a visit to Liverpool that year, and with a John Galliano for Dior slip dress to the Met Gala in 1996, devoted to 50 years of Christian Dior. The Lady Dior handbag became an instant success. This was the time when Lady Di’s divorce from Prince Charles finalized, so the handbag also became a symbol of her new-found freedom, both personal and sartorial.
In honour of Lady Di, the house of Dior decided to rename its iconic bag and pay tribute to the Princess of Wales, and since 1996, the bag has been known as the “Lady Dior” handbag.
The Saddle bag has become a signature bag of Y2K (Year 2000’s) fashion as it premiered on the Spring-Summer 2000 runway and took the world by the storm. It was designed by John Galliano in 1999, for his cowboy-inspired collection. Though Galliano has never confirmed it, the bag is believed to be inspired by Helmut Newton’s “Saddle I, Paris” (1976) – a racy black-and-white photograph of a model posed on her hands and knees with a horse saddle harnessed over her back, where stirrups hang as a letter “D” on a handbag. Galliano names it the Saddle Bag and it was seen on all the fashionistas of the time, like Paris Hilton. It was also beloved by the main fashion influencer of the early 2000’s, Carrie Bradshaw on the TV-screens of Sex and the City.
WWD reports that it increased Dior’s accessories sales by 60%, it was released in a variety of colours, textures and as unique limited edition collectible pieces – from Rastafarian to Maharaja-pattern to newspaper-printed editions, along with jewel-encrusted maximalist versions loudly proclaiming the brand’s logo. But following a fate of all It-items, it dropped its status and declined in demand by 2007.
Fashion outlets credit Beyonce, who singlehandedly brought the purse back to the spotlight when she wore it in 2014, followed by a K-Pop star CL in 2016. Vintage resellers saw an increase in demand for the handbag they once priced as low as $150. The resurgence of the handbag also coincided with the rise of luxury consignment in North America.
In 2018, following the demand on the preloved market, the Saddle Bag made its return in Maria Grazia Chiuri‘s Fall-Winter 2018 collection - slightly bigger in size for the modern-day convenience. The piece has quickly become a street style staple and seen on all the influencers and Instagram stars on social media. Upon its premiere, searches for both vintage and reissue Saddle Bags spiked by 957% within 48 hours!
Diorama is one of the recent additions to Dior handbag division, designed and introduced by Raf Simmons in 2015 at Spring-Summer collection. This bag borrows from vintage feminine silhouettes with its classic flap and minimal branding, often compared to Chanel Boy bag. It features an oversized version of brand's signature Cannage pattern, with a diamond-shape clasp and chain strap as its only detailing — the perfect balance between traditional femininity and modernity.
What is notable about Diorama is that non other than Rihanna was chosen as a face for this handbag. She made history as in 2015 she was the first Black woman as a spokesperson of the fashion house since its inception in 1947!
Although Christian Dior ran his namesake fashion house for only ten years, his legacy is unquestionable, not only from the artistic point of view, but also with his business sense, launching his perfume early on in the founding of his fashion house, deeply connecting with Hollywood and operating under successful licensing and expanding his empire overseas. His New Look collection not only symbolized the return of prosperity and femininity, but also brought Paris back as a fashion capital of the world after World War II. Currently Christian Dior SE is controlled and chaired by French businessman Bernard Arnault, and is a part of the world's largest luxury group, LVMH. The company's artistic direction is run by a woman and doesn't show any signs of slowing down!
Christian Dior in the garden at Moulin du Coudret in Milly-la-Forêt, c. 1950 PHOTOGRAPH : © ANDRÉ OSTIER / DIOR IN BLOOM / CHRISTIAN DIOR PARFUMS
Sources:
1. Anne Pasternak, Florence Müller, Maureen Footer and Matthew Yokobosky with contributions by Katerina Jebb, Christian Dior: Designer of Dreams, Rizzoli Electa, 2021.
2. Elizabeth Semmelhack, Gerard Uferas, Dior by Roger Vivier. Rizzoli, 2018
3. Alicia Drake, The Beautiful Fall: Fashion, Genius and Glorious Excess in 1970s Paris, Bloomsbury, 2007
4. https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/christian-dior
5. https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/mbxjmn/dior-saddle-bag-sex-in-the-city
6. https://hypebae.com/2018/10/dior-saddle-bag-history-john-galliano
7. https://www.thevintagebar.com/the-archive/back-in-the-dior-saddle
8. https://www.purseblog.com/dior/do-you-remember-the-old-dior/
10. https://www.voguebusiness.com/companies/can-diors-meteoric-rise-continue-in-2022
11. https://www.goodfloristguide.com/flowers-by-christian-dior/
]]>Rewearing, repeating outfits and prolonging life of your clothing should be a real status symbol because it not only signals of your ownership of the items but also means that the longer you wear an item, the better quality and value it is. It signifies that it was made from good quality materials and that you have been taking care if it - dry cleaners, alterations and shoe repair - and that's not cheap. Moreover, taking care of your clothes costs more than buying fast fashion.
With “Reduce, Reuse and Recycle” mantra, that has been around for over a decade now, additional models of sustainable fashion consumption are promoted now, which are Repairing and Rewearing. Normalizing repeating outfits has been encouraged by business moguls like Arianna Huffington and fabulously exemplified by royals, from British royal family to fashionable Queen Letizia of Spain, and recently Hollywood stars, from Tiffany Haddish to Jane Fonda.
According to the DW documentary “The Clothes We Wear”, 120 BILLION garments are produced annually nowadays [3]. A piece of clothing is worn on average 3 times before it gets discarded [2]. In the UK, findings of the research, including the impact of social media, showed the need for change among consumers, “300,000 items of clothing end up in UK landfill every year”. It’s been reported that an average American discards 80 lbs of clothing every year. And these numbers have been increasing annually. According to Greenpeace, 40% of clothing are never worn [24]. So why are people impulsively buying so much??
It’s been reported that social media is driving an insatiable appetite for fashion [2] - not only to showing off a new look but also it became so easy to purchase through your favourite app just by one click of the button. Do you remember a saying that “a diva can’t be photographed wearing the same outfit twice”? Just a couple of years ago celebrities could be mocked for wearing the same outfit [17] and it was considered taboo [18][23]. According to UK charity Barnardo’s, 25% of people would be embarrassed to wear an outfit to a special occasion more than once with this rising to 37% amidst 16-24 year olds [22]. This mentality has been driving the throwaway culture of today.
Many bloggers and celebrities do not buy much of their clothes. Depending on their level, it can either be gifted to them, loaned or they might just buy an outfit, take pictures - for their feed or to attend a local fashion event - and then return it back to the store. So if they are photographed once, and there is no ownership, what kind of luxury are we talking about? It comes back to the point that the more you wear something, the more you appear in the same garment on your feed, it means that you really own it. The more you wear it, the more “wear and tear” is happening and in order to extend its life, you have to mend it, which is another investment. To change a zipper on a skirt can cost up $30. If you go to a fast fashion store, you can buy three new skirts there at this price. But at what cost? [4] It is very easy to buy something cheap, wear it once and discard, it is harder to maintain the garment - and that is a real luxury!
Other than from the context of sustainability, repeating outfits can also be seen through a gendered perspective and conversation. In 2017 Arianna Huffington, the co-founder of Huffington Post, founder and CEO of Thrive Global, one of Forbes Most Powerful Women, advocates for repeating outfits for women. In her essay she says, “Finding something you love and wearing it again and again and again is a great way to equalize the competitive disadvantage of the style gap — in the form of time and money and mindshare….I’m not suggesting women go full Silicon Valley tech guy and throw on jeans, a t-shirt and a hoodie every day. It’s about buying things we love and then… wearing them again and again and again. Who cares if you’ve been seen in it already this week? Men do it without a care in the world. Why don’t we?” [19] In suggesting women repeat their outfits, Huffington said it may cut down on wardrobe anxiety but added "women should deliberately repeat things they love.” [20]
Coming back to sustainability, BAFTA (The British Academy of Film and Television Arts) Awards in 2020 hosted the most sustainable awards ceremony. They stated, that the ceremony in 2020 “became the first BAFTA ceremony to be carbon neutral and albert certified. The red carpet was 100% recyclable, sustainably sourced produce was served at the awards dinner and branding that was not being reused from previous years was produced using reclaimed or recyclable materials. Where sustainable choices were unable to be made, BAFTA offset, as well as giving guests the tools to be more sustainable through offsetting their own travel and making sustainable fashion choices for the ceremony” [6]. BAFTA collaborated with London College of Fashion to provide a guide for following sustainable dress code. While nothing was mandatory, award attendees were strongly encouraged to re-wear existing pieces, seek out environmentally friendly brands, and showcase green design on the world stage [7]. As we know - the most sustainable item is what you already have. Although celebrities tried to play around the rule, choosing sustainable fabrics or elements for the new gowns, Kate Middleton was a rare exception and attended the event in an Alexander McQueen gown she first wore on a visit to Malaysia in 2012.
Kate Middleton along with her sister-in-law Meghan Markle are great champions for normalizing rewearing outfits. During her royal years, Markle contributed to the narrative of normalization of famous women to be seen and photographed in the same outfit, as she was attending numerous occasions in dresses photographed before.
Kate Middleton is celebrated for her “timelessly chic” [8] taste and how she recycles her dresses, whether it is from Zara or from British high-end design houses. For the green carpet of the sustainability-minded first ever Earthshot Prize Awards on October 17, 2021 it was long awaited and speculated what of the beloved dresses would she repeat. And it was a lavender Alexander McQueen gown previously worn for BAFTA event in Los Angeles in 2011. And every time the Duchess repeats an outift, it is a statement, a headline, a celebration and one step closer to normalizing recycling our looks. Jonathan Van Ness of “Queer Eye” said, “Kate Middleton gave me permission to re-wear things, ’cause honey, if the Duchess can do it, like, why can’t I?” [19]
Although often compared to Kate Middleton, another “queen of rewear” is Queen Letizia from Spain. According to royal watchers, she “often re-wears individual favourites from her wardrobe, but lately has been returning to entire outfits more and more, even from as recently as a few months before” [10] thus bringing sustainable narrative to the press with her every appearance, even if those are from Spanish fast fashion brands like Zara and Massimo Dutti.
Her Royal Highness Princess Mary of Denmark is known for repeating her outfits as well as she is a famous advocate for sustainability. The Princess is known for throwing support behind environmental initiatives including the Global Fashion Agenda and Fair Festival, Denmark's largest digital showcase of sustainable products [21]. In 2020 she made headlines in People Magazine, when she was wearing the same gown for New Years Eve four times [9].
From the royals, celebration of rewearing has reached Hollywood. In 2017 American comedian actress and stand-up comedian Tiffany Haddish wore a white Alexander McQueen gown three times- at the “Girls Trip” premiere in July 2017, while hosting November 2017 “Saturday Night Live”, and while presenting an award at the Oscars in early 2018. Although “taboo-ed” originally [23], in the interview to the Glamour magazine she said that her effort to rewear the dress has already had a bit of an effect on the industry. “And I’ve seen some people in the same outfit twice since then,” she said. Her friend and co-star, Jada Pinkett Smith, was praising her choice. She also mentioned that people outside the industry said seeing the actress repeat her outfits has really helped them mentally in their daily life [23].
We might not remember who won the 2020 Venice Film Festival, but the festival’s jury president, Cate Blanchett made a statement with rewearing her previously seen dresses at the Venice Film Festival. According to press, Blanchett is making a case for sustainability. “It’s chic to repeat,” her stylist, Elizabeth Stewart, posted on Instagram. “When planning for any important event, make sure to look in your own closet first! Clothes are meant to be cherished and worn again and again. Even if you are a world-famous actress.” [12] The actress herself said, ”I think there is incredible opportunity to reassess processes we’ve taken for granted that were dysfunctional and unsustainable," she told WWD, adding that championing sustainable fashion is "something I’ve been interested in -- built-in obsolescence and the counterpoint to that, which is durability and products that are made well.”[13]
Legendary actress turned activist Jane Fonda has been taking a stance on the problem of climate change and made a declaration that she is not going to buy any more new clothes, she would only shop her own closet for upcoming awards ceremonies and galas. "I vowed a couple of years ago I would never buy any new clothes again. We spend too much money, we buy too many things, and then we get rid of them. We try to develop our identity by shopping, right? We gotta stop that. Stop all this consumerism.” - she said in one of the interviews [14] And she has keeping up with her vow very glamorously.
Indeed before going shopping for a new clothes, we should shop our wardrobes first. As a matter of fact, wearing an item for 9 months longer reduces your carbon footprint for that garment by 30%. [5]
Of course, fashion has a function and we do need new clothes to cover our bodies and satisfy our appetite for novelty and pleasure of owning new things. But what we don’t need is to throw away an item after it was worn a handful of times and featured in a few posts on the social media feed. You always have an option of reselling your items, and the better condition it is, more you can score for it. And if we have a question of reselling and a budget for updating your wardrobe, this is where second hand and consignment stores, including Lux Second Chance, comes into play. If everyone bought at least 1 used item instead of new, it could save nearly six pounds of CO2 emissions. That’s an equivalent to removing half a million cars off a road for a year. [5]
The main problem of today's fashion is overproduction with unsustainably low prices, that contribute to overconsumption and thus overflowing of landfills because of a constant chase of trends and seasons. The solutions are quite simple -buy seasonless (“last year’s fashion fills up today’s landfills”) and buy preloved.
Love and celebrate what you already have in your wardrobe. In this article I am not convincing you to purchase only designer, or to wear what you don’t like anymore, if you are tired of it or it is not fashionable. My point is that we as society should discard the throwaway culture of clothing consumption and take care of things. Even if it is a Zara dress, it deserves the same love as an Alexander McQueen gown.
Rewear - don’t be a diva, be a Queen!
Sources:
Coming out of the gate with the biggest and most common trend we saw: Colour everywhere! Every Bible agrees, it’s all about colour this year! Colour blocking, pops of colour, fluorescents, pastels, and bright accessories are everywhere and honestly, it’s the cheery vibe we need after a lengthy journey through this pandemic. And according to Vogue, colour theorists have proven that a bright outfit can actually brighten your mood.
Feeling bold and inspired? Take a look at these picks, all available on Lux Second Chance!
All of a sudden we’re seeing 2004 again. Hemlines are rising and the miniskirt is back! The excuse to show a little leg is the roaring 20’s energy we need to take with us into 2022!
Pearls are the latest embellishments taking over more than just our grandmother’s necklaces. Pearls are the ultimate measure of class in any outfit, so now we’re just spreading classiness in a variety of ways.
We have you covered when it comes to finding your next pearly piece. Check out these contenders.
No longer just for Halloween, we can thank Kim K and Lizzo for bringing catsuits to the main stage this year. We will say, it does make things easier when your entire outfit is just one continuous piece of clothing. It may be slightly more adventurous than the mainstream crowd is ready for, but I see this trend evolving into more approachable alternatives.
We apologize. We’re here again, and quite honestly running out of quirky play on words for “fringe”. If you’re a frequent reader of this blog, you’ll know that this is at least the third time we’ve mentioned fringe as the hot trend of the moment (or I guess the past 2 years). But hey! It’s versatile, accessible, and a fun way to get into the “swing” of things! (we apologize again for the dad joke)
Fringe is always in stock at Lux, so get scrolling and pick the way in which you’re incorporating fringe for 2022!
Consider lounge-erie athleisurewear’s elevated and posh older sister. Lounge-erie is the slip dress you can rock on date night and the silk pajama set that’s now a socially acceptable party ensemble. This trend just solidifies that the fashion world is officially prioritizing comfort in this “new normal” of post-pandemic life. Honestly, we’re here for it if the comfort trend is as glamorous as this!
We’ve seen this aesthetic slowly take over. It’s all over Instagram, it’s making moves in the home decor sector, and of course, it’s made its way into fashion. Whether it’s loungewear or a smart coordinated suit set, this trend is taking over the runway and our closets.
For our best neutral picks, check out this list here.
Apparently bigger is always better this year. We’re seeing oversize in outerwear, denim, sweaters, and accessories! Maybe it’s for comfort and practicality? Maybe it’s Gen Z’s way of getting us as far away from skinny jeans as they possibly can? Either way, we’ll take it!
And we got this combo because of it! Track suits and structured coats continue to shine as our pandemic vibe. The “work from home to meeting friends for a park hang” ensemble works for various scenarios and gives off just the right amount of “fashion–but I don’t care”.
There you have it! Let’s see where these trends take us this new year and don’t forget, all these trends and more can be found at luxsecondchance.com.
]]>Although this is grim news, there are real positive strides being taken by the fashion industry, as they are the second most polluting industry in the world after oil.
]]>Although this is grim news, there are real positive strides being taken by the fashion industry, as they are the second most polluting industry in the world after oil [1].
As the world faces an overexploitation of resources, 90% of corporate executives think sustainability is important, but only 60% of companies have a sustainability strategy [2]. Although this isn’t exactly the numbers we want to see, it is very evident that sustainability and environmental practices are seriously picking up steam for all companies, especially those in the fashion industry. Companies are now aware that implementing and pioneering sustainability, as a core corporate value, is good for added brand value and provides a competitive advantage over the “old guys” [2].
So who can we thank for this new standard? Spoiler alert: it’s not boomers. Millennials have now become the largest generation of the population. According to a survey by Nielsen, millennials are twice as likely as baby boomers to say they are changing habits to reduce environmental impact. Generation Z is soon to become the next dominant generation and is equally concerned, if not more concerned, about sustainability than millennials. The same Nielson study showed that “66% of consumers would spend more for a product if it came from a sustainable brand, and 81% of global consumers feel strongly that companies should help improve the environment. There is a changing trend among consumers toward supporting sustainability, and it is only getting stronger as the number of millennials and generation Z increases” [2].
As the world becomes more aware of the devastating impact the fashion industry has on our environment, it’s easy to point the finger at fast-fashion for these damages. Luxury brands have an advantage over fast-fashion companies as their products are purchased for longevity, rather than being temporary and disposable like their inexpensive counterparts [1].
Progressively over time, it seems that shoppers are shifting away from buying frivolously towards investing wisely; quantity is out and quality is in. According to a quote in Harper’s Bazaar, “customers are moving away from the easy ‘Insta-ready’ entry level items to investment purchases, most notably in forever bags from brands like Gucci, Bottega Veneta and Saint Laurent." As a result, these styles are proving almost impossible to hold in stock [1].
Besides investing in longevity and quality over quantity, at the core of many luxury brands is authenticity, origin, and heritage. Meaning their manufacturing is often based close to where the brand originated and main fashion houses still reside. Chanel manufactures mainly in France, Gucci is still produced solely in Italy, and so on and so forth. This human touch and localization not only increases social impact and perception, but also helps sustainability efforts. The less a product needs to travel to get from the manufacturers to the end customer, the less impact it has on the environment [3].
No luxury brands can claim they are taking these matters as seriously as Chloé. After welcoming their new creative director, Gabriela Hearst, less than a year ago, Hearst has been cracking down on Chloé’s environmental impact. So much so, that Chloé has become the very first (and only) luxury fashion brand to earn a B Corp Certification.
B Corp is the most rigorous and demanding certification status, requiring brands to answer 300 questions about their social and environmental impacts. Their answers are scored on a points system, and brands must earn at least 80 to be B Corp certified; only 3,500 brands out of 100,000 have made the cut. In October, it was announced that Chloé was joining the ranks, becoming the first luxury fashion house to do so [4].
In helping with these efforts, Hearst’s debut collection included recycled cashmere and wool knits, reworked vintage handbags, and puffers made in collaboration with Sheltersuit, a nonprofit providing shelter for the homeless, using leftover Chloé textiles. The total carbon footprint was a whopping 400% smaller than the prior year’s line [4].
Not only are the products more environmentally friendly, but the creative director herself is personally advocating for the way in which we consume fashion. During an interview at the Chloé showroom in Paris, just days before she was due to sit on a COP26 panel, the designer spoke openly, and with urgency, about fashion's role in turning the climate crisis into what she called "climate success” [5].
"I grew up on a farm," Hearst explained. "Everything gets used on a farm, so that's where I learned utilitarian skills for sustainability. We live in a [world] that is overproducing things that we don't need," she expressed, explaining that her three-point approach to design looks at fossil fuels, overconsumption and the need to rehabilitate the environment. She continued by adding, "I always tell my clients, 'Do not buy a lot, buy what you need, what you want, what you want to pass down.’” It's a mindset she learned from her mother, whose clothes, made by the family tailor, were meant to last a lifetime [5].
There is so much we can do, from little changes to big impacts. For one, we can also shop with intent as opposed to excess. Being mindful about the way we consume is a huge part of it and putting our money where our mouth is will tell the industry what is important to us. Investing in key pieces isn’t the only way consumers can go greener. Second-hand fashion is set to surge in the coming years, which could overtake the fast-fashion market by 2029 [1].
Another way we can make our own efforts is through education. CNN Style shared a great list of books and resources for those concerned about climate change and their lifestyle choices. Read the full list here.
We can also watch and follow those that lead by example. It’s not only inspiring, but these brands, organizations, and social media influencers share their knowledge, tips, and tricks to living a more sustainable life, especially when it comes to fashion. Check them out below and click the links below the image to give them a follow!
Top row: @consciousfashion @elizafaulkner @inspiroue @jaylopat
Bottom row: @marikoashley @remakeourworld @styleand.sustain @thegoodtrade
To leave you with some food for thought, Stella McCartney shares her feelings regarding sustainability by stating, “The future of fashion is circular. It has to be.” She concludes by saying, “Right now, the equivalent of one dump truck of textiles gets landfilled or burned every second, and by 2025 the clothing waste accumulated between now and then will weigh as much as today’s world population. We can’t ignore it” [1].
Unit next time, take care of yourself and the planet, Luxers!
Sources:
1. Jessica Davis, “How are luxury retailers taking on sustainability?”, Harper’s Bazaar, January 2, 2020. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/fashion-news/a29386990/luxury-retailers-sustainability/
2. Talal Rafi, “Why Corporate Strategies Should Be Focused On Sustainability”, Forbes, February 10, 2021. https://www.forbes.com/sites/forbesbusinesscouncil/2021/02/10/why-corporate-strategies-should-be-focused-on-sustainability/?sh=65d6b0a37e9f
3. Gwarlann de Kerviler, Elodie Gentina, and Nico Heuvinck, “ Research: How to Position a Luxury Brand as Sustainable”, Harvard Business Review, September 10, 2021. https://hbr.org/2021/09/research-how-to-position-a-luxury-brand-as-sustainable
4. Emily Fara, “Chloé Is the First Luxury Fashion House to Earn a B Corp Certification”, Vogue, October 18, 2021. https://www.vogue.com/article/chloe-b-corp-certification-sustainability
5. Fiona Sinclair Scott, “We're not perfect but we're freaking trying': Chloé's Gabriela Hearst on making fashion sustainable”, CNN Style, November 5, 2021. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/gabriela-hearst-sustainable-fashion/index.html
6. Orsola de Castro and Bronwyn Seier, “What to read if you're worried about the climate crisis and your lifestyle”, CNN Style, August 31, 2020. https://www.cnn.com/style/article/reading-list-fashion-climate-crisis-sept/index.html
]]>It was supposed to be kept under lock and key, but reports surfaced early at the start of Milan’s Fashion Week that Versace and Fendi would hold a dual fashion show to present their new co-branded collection: Fendace. Their show was divided into two parts: the “Fendi” portion, designed by Donatella Versace and the “Versace” portion, overseen by Kim Jones and Silvia Venturini-Fendi. The fun twist was that the fashion houses each interpreted the other house’s archives and signatures, which resulted in a cross-pollination of logos and prints. Their star-studded lineup of models included Naomi Campbell, Gigi Hadid, Emily Ratajkowski, and Kate Moss [1].
“A first in fashion history”, noted designer Donatella Versace, who emphasized that this collaboration was, at heart, a deep admiration for the codes and cultures of both brands, together with a mutual encouragement for the designers to be themselves [1]. This showcase of two heritage Italian brands was the perfect way to close off the Milan Fashion Week.
In September, Prada showed its commitment to being a global brand – as well as recognizing how profitable the Chinese market is – by putting on two simultaneous shows: one in Milan and another in Shanghai for their respective and concurrent fashion weeks. Big screens were put up in both locations, so the audience could see how each outfit looked on the two different models [2].
This provided a unique way to launch the first SS22 collection designed by Miuccia Prada and Raf Simons, live from both Milan and Shanghai [3].
Carrying a sign reading "overconsumption = extinction”, a protester made a somewhat lengthy trek down the runway at Louis Vuitton’s Paris Fashion Week show this past Tuesday. The banner condemning the impact of excessive consumption on the environment was held by a protester representing Amis de la Terre France, Youth for Climate and Extinction Rebellion. [4]
Though the protester was on the catwalk for nearly a full minute before being escorted off by security, the disruption hardly interrupted the flow of models (or the celeb-filled front row). [4] We all know fashion shows are no stranger to controversy, protests, and disruptions, so we’re certain these models came with a little training.
The 19-year old model joined supermodel mom, Kate Moss, on the runway of the Fendace fashion show for Milan’s Fashion Week. As Page Six reports, “fans were quick to notice that the younger Moss, who has type 1 diabetes, proudly showed off the insulin pump on her thigh while modeling a baroque-printed swimsuit and cropped jacket.” [5]
Fans online are praising the model for shedding some light on the disease and embracing insulin pumps as nothing to hide, but something that is just a part of some people’s everyday lives. Many agree that it is encouraging to see high fashion brands start to embrace models that don’t necessarily fit the outdated mold of what was once the “high fashion model”.
While guests were sitting down, expecting Balenciaga’s Spring-Summer 2022 showcase, attendees at the Théâtre du Châtelet were treated to a 10-minute special episode of The Simpsons, in which the family travels to Paris to model a range of iconic Balenciaga looks. [6]
According to an article from CNN, The Simpsons viewing was just one part of the presentation, and the way the Spring-Summer collection was introduced by Gvasalia beforehand was another surprise. Guests entered via a red carpet, while those already inside watched a live stream of the entrances. As it turned out, they were actually watching the runway. Secretly mixing with the red-carpet arrivals were real Balenciaga models, including actors Elliot Page and Isabelle Huppert, dressed in the 64 new looks. [6]
Paris Fashion Week hosted a significant debut from fashion house Rochas. After Alessandro Dell'Acqua oversaw the house for years, Charles de Valmorin, a recent graduate from École de la Chambre Syndicale de la Couture Parisienne, was hired to takeover the brand at just 24 years of age. Paris Fashion Week was his debut runway show and collection with the brand. [7]
In just 18 months at the helm of Rochas, he has become one of the rising stars of Paris fashion, with many comparing him to a young Yves Saint Laurent.
It’s such a welcomed and positive change to see luxury fashion brands continue to embrace the call for diversity and inclusion. What was once an incredibly harsh industry, shared with only the chosen few, we are seeing fashion houses open the door to a better representation of the real world.
Whether it’s drag queens as supermodels (Drag Race UK alum Tayce and Bimini Bon Boulash walking in London Fashion Week) or brands like Christian Siriano continuously embracing body-positive models, it is encouraging to see more than just the Caucasian “twiggy” model we are used to seeing on the runway.
A stand-out moment from New York Fashion Week was at Jeremy Scott’s Moschino show when disabled transgender model Aaron Philip made her way down the runway, sporting a yellow two-piece set with matching jacket and handbag. [8] Runways have come a long way in the past decade, and we are excited to see this positive change evolve more as time goes on.
What were some of your favourite moments from the Spring-Summer 2022 shows? Share them below in the comments!
Sources:
Last month on Instagram we asked if our followers were interested in knowing the history of Hermès Kelly bag and over 60% pressed “YES”. So September turned out to be a perfect time to share some stories and to take you through histories of the most famous, beloved and cult handbags of our time. These handbags are conversation starters, and not only status symbols but cultural symbols as they carry a plethora of cultural references and stories behind them. They don't only belong to our wardrobes and private collections, but also films, museums and art exhibitions.
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Hermès - Kelly
The coveted Kelly bag has not always had this name. Originally it was called Sac à Dépêche (A Mail Bag), when it was designed by monsieur Hermès’ son-in-law, Robert Dumas, in the 1930’s and hit the stores in 1935. Its design rejected the embellishment aesthetic, considered trendy at that time, and the focus was on simple lines and beautifully crafted leather. History goes that the bag got into Grace Kelly’s hands through the legendary Hollywood costume designer Edith Head, who from the approval of Alfred Hitchcock, supplied some Hermès accessories for the set of his movie To Catch a Thief in 1955. The actress loved this bag so much that she carried it with her off-screen during important events, including her engagement announcement to Prince Rainier of Monaco. After their wedding, in the early weeks of the Princess of Monaco pregnancy, she famously shielded her tiny baby bump with this Hermès bag from paparazzi. The photos made it onto Life Magazine. People, who were watching Princess’ every move christened this handbag “Kelly”. However, officially it was renamed from Sac à Dépêche to “Kelly bag” only in 1977. Up until today it still one of the most popular, desired and iconic handbags out there.
In 2010, along with other notable wardrobe pieces from Princess Grace's collection, her Kelly bag was loaned from the palace archives of Monaco and placed on display at the Victoria and Albert Museum, London.
Louis Vuitton - Speedy
One of the most popular creations from the house of Louis Vuitton is its iconic Speedy bag. As a matter of fact, a company that specialized on travel accessories like trunks and spacious duffle bags, created Speedy as their first ever everyday purse in 1930 and named it “Express” as an homage to the era’s travel revolution. It was created as a smaller version of their classic Keepall travel bag and was what now is known as Speedy 30, which is 30 cm wide at the bottom. However the handbag changed the whole direction of the company, who now is the leader in the handbag market, due to its strong connection with celebrity and style icon - Audrey Hepburn. The history claims that in 1959 (or some sources say it was 1965) the actress personally requested a mini version of her Keepall duffle for daily use, only 25 cm wide so that it would be more comfortable to wear for her slender frame - and this is how Speedy 25 was created. Louis Vuitton made a special request and added the model to its selection - and this is a very popular style up until today.
Throughout the years, the Speedy became a staple, being available in all materials and leather versions, including Limited Editions by artists like Stephen Sprouse, Takashi Murakami, Richard Prince, Yayoi Kusama, Kansai Yamamoto, Jeff Koons, as well as other seasonal variations. The Sofia Coppola version of the bag, known as the SC Bag, which is a melding of design elements of both the Speedy and the Keepall, joined the family in 2010. In 2011, Vuitton added a variation of the bag, the Speedy Bandoulière, featuring a long strap that allows to wear it as shoulder bag or cross body. The miniature Nano size was introduced in 2015, and most recently launched as part of the Spring/Summer 18 season, the Speedy Doctor.
Dior - Lady Dior
The history of Lady Dior handbag by Christian Dior was discussed in detail in our December 2020 blog, Status symbol: Princess Diana and her handbags. But it is such an iconic handbag that we could not skip it from this list.
According to the fashion legend, during Princess Diana’s visit to Paris in 1995 for Cezanne Art Exhibition, the First Lady of France, Madame Bernadette Chirac, gave Lady Di, the latest handbag design by Dior, as a diplomatic gift. Created in 1994 under the creative direction of Gianfranco Ferre, the tote was first called “Chouchou,” which means “Favorite” in French. Lady Diana fell instantly in love with the bag, and as the most photographed woman in the world, the bag was highly photographed on the arm of one of the world’s most beloved woman of all time. Marie Claire magazine reports that the late Princess loved it so much, she ordered the bag in every colour. She has been photographed wearing the variation of the bag multiple times, for official, gala and state visits. Most memorably she paired it with a tangerine Versace suit on a visit to Liverpool that year, and with a John Galliano for Dior slip dress to the Met Gala in 1996, devoted to 50 years of Christian Dior. The Lady Dior handbag became an instant success. This was the time when Lady Di’s divorce from Prince Charles finalized, so the handbag also became a symbol of her new-found freedom, both personal and sartorial.
In honour of Lady Di, the house of Dior decided to rename its iconic bag and pay tribute to the Princess of Wales, and since 1996, the bag has been known as the “Lady Dior” handbag.
Fendi - Baguette
The iconic Fendi Baguette purse was designed by Silvia Venturini Fendi in 1997. The designer christened the bag the Baguette because this shoulder bag was made to sit comfortably under the arm in the very same way that the French are usually seen carrying this long, thin baton-esque loaf of crusty bread. However it gained its tremendous popularity thanks to the TV-show Sex and the City and Carrie Bradshaw in early 2000’s. Do you remember an episode, where she got mugged in the street of New York? The robber asks for her "bag", to which Carrie replies "it's a Baguette”. Or how Samantha Jones purchased a fake Baguette from the trunk in the alleys of Los Angeles? In that episode this handbag even became a metaphor for “fake versus authentic” narrative of the episode.
Fendi was the first luxury house to lend a piece to Patricia Field, the show's costume designer and stylist. Sarah Jessica Parker has credited this bag for establishing the show and her character, Carrie Bradshaw, saying "Having Carrie wear the Baguette was a defining moment for us, and marked the beginning of everything”. Since then fashion houses started lending their products to the show and for Fendi it was the biggest commercial success.
It is said that Fendi Baguette has started a whole “It Bag” fashion movement. As LVMH acquired Fendi in 1999, the Baguette has been sold over a million times in addition to the thousands of style variations - embellished, sequinned, embroidered, exclusive pieces, limited editions. It was worn by countless celebrities 20 years ago, even in films and music videos, and is extremely popular today amongst influencers, seen on social media. In 2021 Fendi re-introduced Baguette 1997, a re-edition of the original It-bag.
In 2019 Fendi, when relaunched the Baguette, their campaign featured the purple sequinned Baguette, that Carrie had got stolen. It has become such an iconic piece, that a new generation of fashionistas were chasing it until it appeared on Sarah Jessica Parker’s shoulder, with her famous line “It’s not a bag. It’s a Baguette”. And in 2020 in the exhibition “Bags: Inside Out” in Victoria and Albert Museum in London feature that one purple sequinned Baguette, that now has its place in the pop culture and fashion history.
Gucci Bamboo
While Gucci has many signature handbags, we wanted to tell you a history of the most iconic Gucci purse- The Gucci Bamboo bag. The classic Gucci Bamboo has been reproduced for over 50 years, but the bamboo handles are part of the House of Gucci’s DNA and have been reimagined in a variety of handbags, most notably with the recent issue of Gucci Diana bag in the summer of 2021.
The first Gucci Bamboo was created in 1947 and are truly an example of ingenuity of House of Gucci - it was shortly after the World War II, and the materials were still rationed and in short supply. Gucci’s artisans developed a method of heating and bending bamboo canes, which were easily imported from Japan, to create strong, rigid handbag handles. The bamboo is softened and worked over an open flame by hand to manipulate the material into a semi-circular shape. Then, the handle is coated in multiple layers of lacquer, after which it’s toasted in order to achieve a shiny golden-brown finish. Once cooled, the handles are affixed to the top of the leather frame of the bag. Due to this meticulous process, not a single bamboo handle is ever the same. Understandably, Gucci has patented this unique method and to this date, all bamboo handles are still handcrafted by trained artisans in the Gucci factory just outside of Florence.
It’s been a favourite purse of various Hollywood actresses, from Elizabeth Taylor and Ingrid Bergman in the 1950’s and 1960’s, to contemporary stars like Naomi Watts, Carla Bruni, Jennifer Lopez and many more.
The handbag was revived by Frida Giannini, Gucci’s creative director, in 2010 and named “The New Bamboo”.
Most notably it was recently reimagined by Alessandro Michele, who redesigned various handbags with a bamboo top handle (like Dionysus and Padlock), reissued the classic Gucci Bamboo, played with its gender-neutrality, and reimagined a Bamboo handles tote from 1991, beloved by Princess Diana, and christened it Gucci Diana in her honour.
Chanel Classic Flap
Chanel Classic Flap is one of the most recognizable, desired but also controversial bags due to its bi-annual price increases. Still, no matter how high the price of this Chanel purse goes up, it is still the House’s most popular handbag.
The Classic Flap bag is based on Chanel 2.55 purse, but the main difference is an interlocking CC clasp lock of a Classic Flap bag. The 2.55 handbag bears that name because it was originally issued in February 1955, although it was based on a carry-in-hands bag that Coco Chanel created in 1929. It featured a simple Mademoiselle lock - the iconic CC were added only in the 1980’s by Karl Lagerfeld! In 2005 to celebrate 50 years of 2.55 bag, Karl Lagerfeld relaunched the purse and named it Reissue 2.55, which is a newly created model but an exact recreation of the original. That means that technically 2.55, Reissue (produced after 2005) and Classic Flap (with CC lock) are all different models, although one is based on another.
When the hanging from a shoulder OG 2.55 was created by Coco Chanel herself, it quickly became very popular, as according to stories, that was the first time that it got acceptable that ladies from upper class circles could free their hands and carry a bag on a shoulder.
As everything that Mademoiselle Chanel touched, it is surrounded by myths and stories. They say that Coco Chanel wanted to ease the high society’s ladies life by freeing their hands with shoulder hanged bags. Although common for the working class, it was not favourable within the luxury circles dames, and Chanel created a fashion revolution in that circle. Every detail of this purse bears some personal stories of Coco Chanel. It is said that the quilting of the bag inspired by the jackets worn by male stablehands that she was so particularly fond of. Also, the inside tiny zipper compartment under a top flap was used by Chanel to hide her love letters from her lovers! Another story claims that the shade of burgundy leather that has long been used to line the original 2.55 flap bags and some Classic Flaps, was chosen because of the uniforms worn by Chanel as a little girl at the convent orphanage in Aubazine where she was raised. Also the chains on a purse was reportedly the same chains that the nuns used to dangle keys from their waists.
And we are finishing today's History Lesson with the most iconic and top bag in the hierarchy of handbags, crème de la crème - the Hermès Birkin bag, named after the actress Jane Birkin. This is quite the famous story but with a lot of not that known details. In early 1980’s a Paris-based British actress was flying from Paris to London. She recalls that in the interview to Telegraph in 2012 - "I remember it well. I'd been upgraded by Air France on a flight to London, and was sitting next to a man. I'm not quite sure what type of bag I had with me - my husband, Jacques Doillon, had reversed his car over my basket, crushed it two days before. Little did he know that on this airplane journey, when everything fell out of whatever bag I had, the man next to me said: 'You should have one with pockets'. I said: 'The day Hermès make one with pockets I will have that', and he said: 'But I am Hermès and I will put pockets in for you’." The man was in fact Jean-Louis Dumas, the chief executive of Hermès. Together they began designing and drew a new design of a bag on a sickbag. Dumas proposed that he give Birkin the bag in exchange for her lending her surname to christen the design, and in 1984 it hit the shelves.
According to Jérôme Lalande, an antique dealer specializing in 20th-Century leather goods, the Birkin wasn’t an immediate hit: it only really took off in the late ’90s, at the dawn of the It-bag era, that has started with Fendi’s Baguette. Up until today the company pays the actress annual royalties of tens of thousands of dollars, which she then donates to charities of her choice. Unlike celebrities, who collect and can boast hundreds of Birkin bags (Victoria Beckham or Kardashian-Jenner sisters), the actress has had only five of her namesake purses by 2015 - she’d wear one by one until it gets too worn out, patched with stickers and decorated with talismans, then it gets sold for charity auctions. Today we can tell that the success of the handbag has surpassed the fame of the actress. She laughs that when she goes to America to sing, they ask her, 'Birkin - like the bag?’
There are lots of stories and urban myths that keep the desirability very high around Hermès bag. One is that it is impossible to purchase one in the store unless a buyer has a purchase history and a good relationship with the sales associates and that the wait list for a brand new Birkin are years-long. It has become a signature feature of iconic pop culture figures and participated in many movies, the bag has been included in art exhibitions, performances and conversations around art, fashion and consumerism. Unique and rare, Birkin bags keep selling at astronomical prices at auctions, thus reinforcing an urban legend that it is better to invest in the Hermès bags, than in gold. Whether some of them are true or not, a Birkin bag has definitely became an ultimate status and culture symbol in our world.
Sources for facts and images:
https://www.vintageindustrialstyle.com/hermes-kelly-discover-story-vintage-icon/
https://www.yoogiscloset.com/blog/louis-vuitton-speedy-bag-guide/
https://www.designer-vintage.com/en/stories/louis-vuitton-speedy-bag
https://etoile-luxuryvintage.com/blogs/news/history-of-the-bag-louis-vuitton-speedy
https://www.bagaddictsanonymous.com/guides/history-of-a-classic-the-louis-vuitton-speedy/
https://www.purseblog.com/louis-vuitton/louis-vuitton-handbag-history/
http://stylefrizz.com/200712/short-history-of-the-famous-chanel-255-bag/
https://www.purseblog.com/guides/chanel-flap-bag-facts-history/
https://www.yoogiscloset.com/blog/history-chanel-2-55-reissue-classic-flap-bag/
https://www.spottedfashion.com/2014/02/20/the-reissue-2-55-bag-versus-timeless-classic-flap-bag-guide/
https://www.vogue.co.uk/article/the-most-iconic-gucci-bags-of-all-time
https://www.the-restory.com/2018-2-1-gucci-bamboo-bag/
https://lvbagaholic.com/blogs/lv_bagaholic/gucci-bamboo-bag-reference-guide
https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/advice/a7158/fendi-baguette/
https://www.vam.ac.uk/articles/about-the-bags-inside-out-exhibition
https://www.bbc.com/culture/article/20150116-the-ultimate-status-symbol
http://fashion.telegraph.co.uk/news-features/TMG9126955/How-Janes-Birkin-bag-idea-took-off.html
https://www.vogue.com/article/jane-birkins-birkin-buy-it-now
https://www.purseblog.com/hermes/10-things-you-might-not-know-about-the-hermes-birkin/
https://www.rebag.com/thevault/hermes-101-birkin-breakdown/
]]>Chanel is just the latest of many luxury brands joining the movement of getting on the next level in their ongoing battle against the counterfeit market. Rest assured, these authenticity cards are not just disappearing in thin air, they’re adapting to the new digital age.
Replacing the printed card, as well as the corresponding hologram sticker inside the bag that shows the unique authenticity code (pictured left), are NFC microchips. NFC (Near-field Communication) chips are a key facilitator in blockchain technology and are being embedded in goods that have historically fallen victim to counterfeiters. Blockchain is essentially a system of storing information that is virtually impossible to edit. These chips will store a product’s entire history- from creation to distribution to all transactions [1]. Consumers will be able to access every aspect of a product’s life. Counterfeiters will be unable to recreate these markers. Furthermore, superfake producers will be incapable of even coming into possession of this technology and the required tools to produce the tags [1].
According to a blog by Purse Bop, “On the positive side, you’ll no longer worry about misplacing the authenticity card. Moreover, Chanel will have a record of each of its bags and, presumably, its purchaser. So-called “superfake” bags will therefore be easily identifiable as they will lack the imprinted and tracked code” [1]. In addition, when buyers lost the authenticity card for their Chanel bag, it used to bring down the value of the bag as you no longer had that “insurance” of its authenticity [2]. Now there’s no risk of this.
This new change will take effect on Chanel products from the new 21A product serial numbers onward. These chips can be found on the inside of the handbag in the form of a metal plaque with the classic CC logo and an 8-digit alphanumeric serial code on it [3] (pictured right). It will be relatively easy for superfakes to implement a look-a-like metal chip on the inside of fake bags. However, breaking into Chanel’s system, so that the bag can be authenticated by the brand, will be the thing that sets fakes apart from the real deal [3].
So is Chanel’s digital fight against the counterfeit market the reason for the recent dramatic price increase on a handful of their bags? Apparently not. Word on the street is that implementing NFC chips is actually relatively inexpensive at 9 cents per item [3]. We can assume putting the database and tracking technology in place is probably more pricey, but definitely doesn’t equal out to the recent price inflation.
While it hasn’t been explicitly stated anywhere that Chanel has started this new technology in an effort to curb the resale possibilities of its products, we all know that Chanel has a rocky relationship with the resale market. In 2018, the company sued The RealReal and What Goes Around Comes Around, alleging they engaged in false advertising and sold counterfeit handbags bearing its logo. Chanel and The RealReal are attempting to mediate the case, according to the most recent public court documents [4] [5].
While a lot of luxury brands are slowly (but pleasantly) embracing the inevitable growth of the resale market on luxury items, Chanel is reluctantly dragging its feet.
As some luxury brands are publicly maintaining a distance from resale sites, it’s been said that they are quietly working together to weed out fakes. According to Audrey Depraeter-Montacel, Managing Director - Retail, Fashion & Luxury at consulting agency Accenture, “Some brands work with certain resellers to identify counterfeit goods. They don’t advertise it, but they’re working in a collaborative spirit” [4].
Not only has Chanel stated that it’s the only authority when it comes to certifying its bags, it has also declined to join the Aura Blockchain Consortium, formed last April when LVMH, Prada Group and Compagnie Financière Richemont joined forces to promote the use of a single blockchain solution open to all luxury brands [6].
Similar to Chanel, other luxury brands, such as Louis Vuitton, have also started implementing microchip authenticators and getting rid of the date codes in their bags [2]. It seems as though this is the direction luxury brands are headed, which only makes sense as counterfeit products get better and better year after year. This has now turned into a digital war with blockades and unique systems to keep the authenticating abilities top secret and inaccessible to anyone outside of the real deal.
It will be interesting to see how this shapes up in the resale market. While it’s harder for third parties to do the authenticating process, at least buyers can be even more assured if they take their resale purchases into a Chanel store where it can be authenticated with a quick scan from a sales associate.
To keep up with the latest news and developments as it pertains to everything luxury, keep an eye out here at Lux Second Chance, where authentication is our highest priority and principle.
Sources:
According to an article from The Fashion Law, “Chanel hiked up its prices twice during the pandemic. First, it tacked on an increase of between 5% and 17% on certain bags in May 2020, citing a rise in the cost of certain raw materials and ‘the consequence of recent significant exchange rate fluctuations between the euro and certain local currencies’.” The Fashion Law went on to explain that Chanel followed this up with another 5% increase in October 2020 in line with a larger trend that has also seen some of its rivals, including Louis Vuitton, Dior, and Gucci, boosting price tags (and protecting margins) in the midst of the COVID-19 pandemic [1].
But is it too much increase in too short of time for their loyal customers? Apparently not. While some Asian consumers were not interested in buying Chanel products anymore citing “the exorbitant price tags”, according to the Korea Times, others were ready to do an ‘open run’. An open run refers to customers lining up before opening hours to rush inside as soon as a store opens to grab the items they want [1].
So why does Chanel need to raise it’s prices again, so shortly after it has already done so? According to a different article by The Fashion Law, “Chanel’s revenues fell by 18% on a year-over-year basis to $10.1 billion dollars in 2020 due to widespread closures of its network of brick-and-mortar stores.” The French fashion house also stated in its latest annual report in 2021 that profits were down by 41.4% to $2.05 billion compared to last year [2].
However, many can expect the return of “revenge shopping” (consumers making up for lost time with an increase in spending) to help offset these losses. Chanel has already stated that it’s “bouncing back quickly” with revenues for the first half of 2021 increasing by double-digits compared to its 2019 pre-pandemic numbers, driven largely by consumers in China and the U.S [2].
To be fair to Chanel, we have to also note that many other top designers are moving even more upmarket and hiking their prices in an attempt to make up for losses during the pandemic, according to an article from The Guardian [3]. While a lot of the world’s population suffered devastating personal financial loss during the pandemic, the super-rich got even richer. This strategy of increasing prices from many luxury fashion houses cashes in on this new surging demand for luxury goods from the small percentage of the population that have actually grown even wealthier during the pandemic [3].
Another factor in the recent price and sale increases points to the reintroduction of “shopping tourism” as borders start to open and leisure travel begins to be allowed in some parts of the world [4]. Those that have disposable income to travel often have the privilege of seeking out their favourite designer brands in different countries. Although prices on designer goods vary country to country and item to item, an overarching theme shows countries in Southeast Asia with some of the highest-priced European luxury items compared to Europe and the United States [4]. This usually drives Asian consumers to purchase more luxury goods on holiday while visiting Europe and the US as it makes sense economically to buy more where it’s more affordable.
If you’ve ever wanted to see the prices of luxury handbags and accessories across borders, take a look at the Luxury Fashion Index from Money.co.uk [5] (left and below). Are some luxury goods worth making the trip? Even with conversion rates, sometimes you can find a better deal on a designer dig while you're vacationing in other parts of the world!
However, if jetsetting isn’t on your calendar (or in your budget), then there’s an even better way to get your hands on authentic luxury without the hefty price tag! It comes as no surprise that the luxury resale market is going to gain from these designer price increases. Some people who are fed up with the surging prices will shift to the resale market to get the best bang for their buck. As prices increase on Chanel’s top handbags (among others like Louis Vuitton, Gucci and Dior), these bags will continue to perform well on the resale market as they retain their value time and time again [1].
Many can even see this as a win-win scenario for the resale market and the primary luxury market. Consumers, particularly those of the millennial ilk, have been known to be more willing to spend on bags (and other luxury goods, including watches) if they know that there is a thriving secondary market in place [1]. This means people are willing to buy Chanel products in the primary luxury market (straight from the company itself) if they believe the pieces will perform well in the secondary market.
According to Harper’s Bazaar, “Increasingly, luxury brands are not simply accepting resale as part of the life cycle of their designs, but are joining forces with resellers. In February, Vestiaire Collective introduced its Brand Approved buyback program with Alexander McQueen. Past-season pieces can be returned to participating Alexander McQueen boutiques in exchange for store credit to shop the brand’s current collection, and are in turn, resold online.” [6]
In addition, and possibly most importantly, the luxury resale market provides a key solution to the negative environmental impact of overconsumption by putting back into circulation clothes and accessories that would otherwise be piling up in our closets—or, worse, in a landfill [6].
These are all the positive things to consider when being faced with further inflation pricing from our favourite designers. It doesn’t necessarily mean these designer pieces are becoming less accessible, you just have to be smart where you shop for them. Resale could be the (affordable, environmentally friendly, and now trendy) solution to this ongoing trend.
Sources:
1. “Chanel Boosts Prices Again, Sending Price Tags Up by 15 Percent or More for Certain Bags”, The Fashion Law, July 1, 2021. https://www.thefashionlaw.com/chanel-boosts-prices-again-sending-price-tags-up-by-15-percent-or-more-for-certain-bags/
2. “A Double-Digit Rebound is Currently Underway After Chanel Sales Fell by 18 Percent to $10.1 Billion in 2020”, The Fashion Law, June 15, 2021. https://www.thefashionlaw.com/a-double-digit-rebound-is-underway-as-chanel-sales-fell-by-18-percent-to-10-1-billion-in-2020/
3. Edward Helmore, “Reassuringly expensive: top fashion labels bid to lure elite back”, The Guardian, June 11, 2021. https://www.theguardian.com/fashion/2021/jul/11/reassuringly-expensive-top-fashion-labels-bid-to-lure-elite-back
4. Roxanne Robinson, “As International Travel Resumes, Luxury Goods Retail Prices Vary Globally, Study Finds“, Forbes, June 29, 2021. https://www.forbes.com/sites/roxannerobinson/2021/06/29/as-international-travel-resumes-luxury-goods-retail-price-varies-globally-study-finds/?sh=4d86d5f91aed
5. Salman Haqqi, “Luxury Fashion Index - the cost of iconic fashion around the world”, Money.co.uk, May 24, 2021. https://www.money.co.uk/credit-cards/luxury-fashion-index
6. Alison S. Cohn, “Luxury Brands are Embracing Circular Fashion”, Harper’s Bazaar, July 6, 2021. https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/designers/a36577366/circular-fashion-june-july-2021/
Infographics:
Salman Haqqi, “Luxury Fashion Index - the cost of iconic fashion around the world”, Money.co.uk, May 24, 2021. https://www.money.co.uk/credit-cards/luxury-fashion-index
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In a backwards fashion, we’re starting with our biggest trend first. It’s everywhere and it’s everything from wide legged pants, to boyfriend jackets, to one size fits all. Oversize fashion is taking over the scene this summer; seemingly, the bigger the better! Don’t forget, men are getting in on the action too! Skinny jeans and slim cut dress pants wearers are now looking to Harry Styles for their fashion inspiration and we’re here for it!
And they want their hat back! The bucket hat has been creeping up on us progressively over recent years and it seems that it’s here to stay. What was once your best protection against the sun as a toddler is now all grown up! Take the look from street style to beach style at the drop of a hat (all puns intended). This is surely to be your go-to headwear this summer!
Pastel tones of your favourite ice cream and sorbet flavours are the pop of color of choice this season. You can take it all the way with a full outfit or make a subtle statement with your accessories this summer. If that’s the case, we’ve got you covered with our favourite pastel picks just waiting to be included in your summer wardrobe!
We know we’ve covered this one before, but like bucket hats, this trend is showing it’s longevity. Fringe has always had its place at music festivals and rodeos, but now it’s taking on the mainstream. Check out our top fringe finds here to add some texture and swing to your summer looks!
And they want their tiny bags back! Is it just us, or does this list have a lot of throwback looks we’re living for?! I’m sure if we all dig deep enough in our basements and closets we’ll be able to find our go-to middle school handbag circa 2003. Or better yet, elevate the style with a new find from our favourite designers.
Paris Hilton, Carrie Bradshaw, and all our favourite early 2000s fashionistas iconized the baguette bag and other similar styles (which 5 years ago would have made us cringe). But like everything in fashion, what goes around, comes back around!
From athleisure wear to date night, the bralette is one of the most versatile trends of the summer. Whether it’s an elegant lacey number, or a minimalist sporty vibe, you can incorporate this trend into any look, style, or aesthetic. Take a look at some of our favourite celebs rocking the look!
Glitter, shine, and sparkle! Sequins are back for the summer in a big way! What a hot and sizzling way to bring a little shine to your Saturday night fever. Whether it’s a classic metallic look or getting more daring with sharp pops of color, sequins in a variety of ways are here to stay!
Well it only makes sense that with the spike in temperatures, we’re all trying to find unique and tasteful ways to cut down on the fabric we have to wear and show a little skin. Like the bralette, we’ve seen the trend come and go, but what we’re learning this summer is less is more!
We’ve seen it on the runway and the streets, this dainty little detail is making moves this season. Think of it as a hybrid between a crop top and a string bikini.
Arguably one of the most versatile accessories, the silk scarf can be that colour pop on your handbag, a chic neck tie, or--best yet--a way to keep your hair off your face on hot summer days. Both practical and stylish (not to mention, healthier for your hair than pesky hair elastics), this trend can keep you smooth under pressure (or heat). Fold it as a bandana or wrap it like a headscarf, either way it’s a great way to utilize your favourite silk scarves all year round.
That’s a wrap on our summer finds! We hope these trends spark some renewed inspiration into your looks as summer 2021 takes off in full force! After a year and a half of lockdowns, social distancing, vaccine roll outs, and reopenings, we all deserve a “treat yo self” kind of summer, so let’s get shopping!
]]>The discussion between original/authentic versus fake/counterfeit has been a debate for many things, not only fashion. It comes along with the philosophical debate between “to be” and “to seem”, “real” and “simulated”. Do you remember that episode of "Sex and the City" with a fake Fendi purse? Let’s be frank - if consumers were not buying, the production of replicas and fakes would not exist. The demand drives the production. According to the International Anti-Counterfeiting Coalition (IACC), the total projected value of the global trade in counterfeit goods in 2015 was $1.77 trillion, a number that is roughly equal to the GDP of Brazil! [8] As a matter of fact, counterfeits are the fastest growing market in the world and is expected to grow to 2.8 trillion dollars by 2022 [15].
On one hand, it is more common in developing economies, where people cannot afford purchasing the authentic items, where for socio-economical reasons and currency exchange rates, one designer handbag can cost as much as a yearly salary, but the desire for luxury products is very high. But on another hand, many people, even those who can afford the real thing, make a conscious choice of doing this and they use plenty of excuses to do so. Alarmingly, a survey cited by the European Commission found that 40% of Europeans consider buying counterfeit goods [6]. Researches call them “accomplices” [1] and let us argue with the most common arguments of such buyers.
While the most common and obvious excuse for shoppers is to achieve a higher visual status, wearing a non-authentic designer item, they often have a bunch of other explanations when confronted. Very often they say, “I don’t care about the brand, I just like the design”.
A good design doesn’t come from street markets and hidden undercover factories. If one likes a design, it means that a team of fashion minds have worked hard to create something that will catch your eye. This person has an extraordinary taste, top education and hustled really hard to get a job in the luxury fashion industry. Their team travelled the world to source the best materials to create the desired handbag/shoes/dress that you like the design of.
Today's fashion is way more accessible than ever and if the item is just of a trendy style, not logo-heavy, like a pouch style bag or a heavy chain flap purse, and if you genuinely just “like the design”, you can buy the design from mass market brands. Original Zara is always better than a fake Chanel.
“I like the item, but I don’t want to pay over $1,000 / can’t justify throwing away thousands of dollars for a piece of fashion” or “Why paying so much, when you can find the same item for a tenth of a price”
The most common excuse for purchasing counterfeit goods is the money-saving motive. Professor Ian Phau and his colleagues from Australia, examining counterfeit consumption in China and Singapore, call such shoppers “value-conscious” [1] [14] and for them the opportunity to save the money is a main driving force to purchase an item. And as an aftermath, researchers from Mexico, Maria Perez, Claudia Quintanilla and Raquel Canstaño, in their academic article “Constructing identity through the consumption of counterfeit luxury goods” found that on top of saving money “these actions when internalized seem to contribute in the creation of a positive consumers’ self-image” [10].
However, everything in the world has its price. Yet again, it is important to understand how the global fashion industry works. The price of the item includes the design, top craftsmanship, salaries to the employees, marketing, fashion shows, and sustaining luxury boutiques that provide an enjoyable shopping experience. The value of the item also includes a brand’s heritage and its cultural significance. Of course, there is a whole mythology and aura of prestige around luxury brands. According to Ian Phau, “Consumers purchasing counterfeit brands are willing to pay for the visual attributes and functions without paying for the associate quality. As such, consumers prefer counterfeit products with a famous brand name attached that would present some connotation of prestige to the consumer.” In the same way the story happens in Mexico, where “by buying counterfeits at low prices, while pretending to use the originals, these consumers seek to associate themselves with the image created by the luxury brands, benefiting from their prestige aura and refusing to pay the prices demanded for the originals” [10].
Well, if you don’t want to pay the top price for a new item from a store, wait for it to go on sale. If it is a brand, that doesn’t do markdowns, there is always an option to purchase second hand. If you wholeheartedly like the item, shop at trusted websites like Lux Second Chance, where every items has been authenticated, yet still cheaper and retains the value of the brand.
“Why supporting big corporations (like LVMH, Kering), when I can give my money to the local vendor in the market?”
This type of behaviour has “Robin Hood mentality” , as described by Ian Phau [1] and as a matter of fact, it is even worse. According to Phau, “Consumers rationalize purchasing counterfeits as justifiable because they perceive themselves to be less unethical or illegal. Hence, consumers feel less responsibility as a counterfeit patron. Furthermore, the ‘Robin Hood Mentality’ creates very little consumer sympathy for gigantic multinational corporations that complain about profit lost” [1]. But what consumers probably do not realize is that supporting a trade of counterfeiting sellers encourages lots of other illegal activities. Many countries are trying to fight counterfeit on the state level as it directly impacts tax revenues.
For example in United Kingdom, Intellectual Property report found that 4% of all imports made in 2013, were counterfeit. This results in a loss of sixty thousand jobs in the manufacturing industry and £4 billion lost in tax revenue [2]. In France, despite the hefty fines and even imprisonment, counterfeiting still costs French luxury houses $7.5 billion in lost revenue every year [5].
According to BBC, The National Fraud Intelligence Bureau advises consumers to avoid buying fake goods because "you're helping the trader to break the law”. The bureau, which is affiliated to the City of London Police, also claims: "Many fraudsters use the proceeds from selling counterfeit goods to fund drug dealing or other types of organized crime” [3]. According to the article “Drugs, Guns, and Fake Kicks: Inside the Counterfeit Economy”, “Italian Intelligence says “almost all” of the country’s bootleg industry is run by the Mafia. Another UN report mentions Chinese gangs with ties to Italian counterfeiting experts forcing “smuggled migrants into prostitution and low-wage labor.” Sales of pirated CDs have been linked to funding the 2004 Madrid train bombing, and investigations firm Carratu connects money from counterfeit goods to Hezbollah, Al Qaeda, the Japanese Yakuza, the ETA, and the Russian mob [8] [9]. And not to forget the terrorist attack in Charlie Hebdo newspaper in France. Apparently, the terrorists had funded their weapons purchases by buying fake Nike sneakers from China and reselling them in Paris [4] [8].
“It is not a Chinese fake. It is an Italian replica, made in Italy, from the original molds”
However it is called - counterfeit, fake, imitation, replica, triple A copy - this is still inauthentic. Even though China produces more than 80 per cent of the counterfeit goods seized in Europe, according to the European Union Intellectual Property Office (EUIPO) [2], you still supported thieves. In terms of Chinese “factory-extras”, an investigation by Jing Daily, a luxury culture website, has been made, and they report, that this is an urban myth [17]. It doesn’t matter if it was made in China, Vietnam, or Russia (global leaders in counterfeit production )[2][16], whether it was purchased in a market in Italy or in a bazaar in Istanbul. It doesn’t matter whether it was made from the original molds or leftovers from the original scraps/ raw materials or the “discard“ from original collections. On top of this, most likely it was made, using child or sweatshop labour in inhumane conditions [8]. It is still an unauthorized item and the original creator has not monetarily benefited from it. This is an intellectual property theft.
If you ask, “If it’s such a crime, why police is not doing anything?”. The amount of counterfeiting is so huge that it is physically not possible to prevent all of it. That is why the authorities, agencies and bureaus ask consumers to take some responsibility and not purchase it. However, France counts possession of fake designer goods as a criminal offence, and owning a knockoff can be punished by fines of up to €300,000 or a three-year prison sentence. In 2012 France introduced an anti-counterfeiting campaign, placing ads in the busiest airports to warn the tourists as well. The campaign has been taken up around Europe: the Customs administrations in six other EU countries (Croatia, Hungary, Italy, Romania, the Czech Republic and Slovakia) have adopted it in their local languages to raise awareness among their citizens [18]. "Every time you buy a fake Lacoste, a fake Longchamp, a fake Chanel, you are shooting yourself in the foot on the values you hold dear," said Dior CEO Sidney Toledano [5][16].
“It’s just a handbag. What’s the difference whether I wear an original Gucci or a fake Gucci, as long as I am a good person?”
Many people, purchasing into counterfeit, think, “it is just a handbag”, but a handbag is never just a handbag. It is also a status symbol, it expresses your tastes and reflects sartorial belonging to certain cultural entity, which is a fashion house with its heritage and values. If one proudly wears counterfeit, the image they present to the world is not synchronized with their socio-economical abilities and values. In other words, this kind of dishonesty makes a person inauthentic as well. As a matter of fact, a research has been made to prove this point.
In their academic article “The Counterfeit Self: The Deceptive Costs of Faking It" researchers Francesca Gino, Michael I. Norton and Dan Ariely made a series of experiments with designer sunglasses to prove a suggestion that “a product’s lack of authenticity may cause its owners to feel less authentic themselves—despite their belief that the product will actually have positive benefits—and that these feelings then cause them to behave dishonestly and to view other people’s behavior as more dishonest as well. In short, we suspect that feeling like a fraud makes people more likely to commit fraud” [11]. They made a series of experiments with a large sample of young women. In order to prove their point, the scientists provided them with authentic Chloe sunglasses, but half the women thought they were wearing replicas. And then women had to perform several tasks that presented opportunities for lying and cheating. The results were quite shocking.
“We first found that wearing purportedly counterfeit sunglasses caused people to cheat more on tests when given the opportunity— both when they believed they had an inherent preference for counterfeit products (Experiment 1a) and when they were randomly assigned to wear counterfeits (Experiment 1b). Indeed, we found that the impact of counterfeits extends even beyond the individual, causing individuals not only to behave unethically, but also to see the behavior of others as more unethical (Experiment 2). Finally, we investigated the mechanism underlying these effects, determining that wearing counterfeits causes people to feel inauthentic and that these feelings of inauthenticity—the counterfeit self—drive unethical behavior (Experiment 3)” [11].
In 2012 one of the above mentioned researchers, Dan Ariely, who is a professor of psychology, cognitive science and behavioural economics at Duke University, wrote a book “The Honest Truth About Dishonesty: How We Lie to Everyone---Especially Ourselves” and included that experiment with fake sunglasses. The moral of the story, he wrote, is “if you, your friend, or someone you are dating wears counterfeit products, be careful! Another act of dishonesty may be closer than you expect.” Ariely believes wearing counterfeit fashion has a deeper impact on a person's morality than other counterfeit goods, like pirate software. “I do think clothes are different because clothes are a constant reminder of who we are” he told in one of the interviews [12]. Unlike an illegal download where once you have listened or watched it is done with, he says, “imagine you are buying fake sunglasses and you carry them everywhere you go. It is a reminder that these are illegal.” Fashion is also “something that we pay attention to, to signal to other people who we are, something we are proud of… You might be afraid of getting comments on it in case it is a counterfeit and because of that it captures much more of our attention, energy and awareness.” [12]
Isn’t all of this surprising, mind-blowing and alarming?
So if by any chance, one day, you will feel seduced by getting into purchasing a counterfeit bag, think twice and ask yourself three questions - 1.Perhaps the real producer of the item should be compensated for all the incredible job that they have created? 2. What if the revenue of the merchant I am buying it from, goes to a global terroristic organization? and 3. Who am I actually fooling - my social circles into pretending who I am not, or myself? In case you are a value-conscious shopper and love the feeling of saving money while hunting for great deals, just go to trusted resellers of authentic designer goods, like Lux Second Chance, and may you be happy with a great money-saving deal while participating in the honest value-product exchange!
Sources
1. Phau, I., Teah, M. & Lee, A. Targeting buyers of counterfeits of luxury brands: A study on attitudes of Singaporean consumers. Journal of Targeting, Measurement and Analysis for Marketing (2009) 17, 3–15. doi:10.1057/jt.2008.25
2. https://fashionispsychology.com/fake-it-till-you-make-it/
3. https://www.bbc.com/news/uk-england-36782724
4. https://www.vogue.com/article/why-i-stopped-wearing-funny-fakes
5. https://www.popsugar.com/fashion/French-Anti-Counterfeiting-Ad-Campaign-23352697
6. Catherine Viot, André Le Roux, Florence Kremer. Attitude towards the purchase of counterfeits: Antecedents and effect on intention to purchase. Recherche et Applications en Marketing (English Edition), SAGE Publications, 2014, 29 (2), pp.3-31. ff10.1177/2051570714533474ff. ffhal-01803871f
https://hal.archives-ouvertes.fr/hal-01803871/document
7. KEITH WILCOX, HYEONG MIN KIM, and SANKAR SEN*. Why Do Consumers Buy Counterfeit Luxury Brands? Journal of Marketing Research
247 Vol. XLVI (April 2009), 247–259
https://www0.gsb.columbia.edu/mygsb/faculty/research/pubfiles/5683/counterfeit_luxury_brands.pdf
8. https://www.complex.com/style/2016/12/counterfeit-fashion-industry
9. https://www.unodc.org/documents/counterfeit/FocusSheet/Counterfeit_focussheet_EN_HIRES.pdf
10. Constructing identity through the consumption of counterfeit luxury goods
June 2010. Qualitative Market Research 13(3):219-235
DOI:10.1108/13522751011053608
11. Francesca Gino, Michael I. Norton and Dan Ariely. The Counterfeit Self: The Deceptive Costs of Faking It. Psychological Science 2010 21: 712. DOI: 10.1177/0956797610366545 http://pss.sagepub.com/content/21/5/712
12. https://www.huffpost.com/entry/the-psychology-of-knock-o_b_523218
13. https://www.smh.com.au/lifestyle/fashion/fake-bags-for-fake-women-20120815-248am.html
14. Phau, I. and Teah, M. (2009), "Devil wears (counterfeit) Prada: a study of antecedents and outcomes of attitudes towards counterfeits of luxury brands", Journal of Consumer Marketing, Vol. 26 No. 1, pp. 15-27. https://doi.org/10.1108/07363760910927019
15. https://www.foreo.com/mysa/the-big-broad-world-of-counterfeits/
16. https://wwd.com/business-news/marketing-promotion/france-unveils-new-anti-counterfeit-ads-5932220/
17. https://jingdaily.com/china-counterfeit-report-do-factory-extras-really-exist/
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In light of the recent rise of Anti-Asian hate crimes across the United States and the world, Lux Second Chance is turning the spotlight on the Asian luxury consumer market and how large of a role it plays within the industry. To put this influx into cold, hard numbers, more than 2,500 incidents of anti-Asian discrimination have been recorded to Stop AAPI Hate reporting center since its launch in March 2020. Seven out of 10 incidents involved verbal harassment, with physical assaults accounting for 9% of incidents, according to the report. NYPD data shows anti-Asian hate crimes have spiked 1,900% in New York City in the last year alone. An U.N. report found that more than 1,800 anti-Asian incidents took place in the U.S. over an eight-week period from March to May 2020. [2]
This is disturbing and the fashion industry can no longer be silent.
A lot of Asian fashion designers and houses are now speaking up about the realities Asian designers and Asian consumers face in the luxury fashion world. In a statement, designer Phillip Lim said the work of fashion houses “should represent the world we want to see.” [2] Designer Jason Wu shared his experience by stating, “Growing up, there wasn’t a lot of Asian representation in fashion. It is more important now than ever that we stand up as a community to push for change and acceptance—we will not stand for racism and intolerance.” [3] Both powerful messages that render the question, what is the fashion world doing to address this issue?
Arguably, good business strives to reflect and cater to its consumers, so why is the luxury fashion industry so slow to include Asian voices, perspectives, models, designers, and business leaders?
Often overlooked and definitely underrepresented in high fashion magazines and brand campaigns, the Asian population is one of the driving forces that is growing the luxury market. In 2019, Chinese consumers alone accounted for 90% of the growth in the personal luxury goods market or some €19 billion ($21 billion USD) in sales. They also generated 35% of global luxury spending. [4] With these stats, it only makes sense that we should see Asian representation in the luxury market from models, to designers, to CEOs.
It’s also encouraging to see that these numbers aren’t exclusive to Asian countries, but also Asian Americans living in North America. Asian Americans are the fastest-growing consumer segment in the U.S., according to a report from Nielsen, which previously projected that Asian American buying power would be worth $1.1 trillion USD by 2020. [2] Asian American households on average have a 41% higher income than the national average, and that buying power adds up. By 2024, Asian American buying power is projected to reach $1.6 trillion USD. [5]
It is important to note that Nielsen did not disaggregate that number according to Asian American subsets, among which there exists great wealth disparity. [2] It is essential for people to understand the wealth disparity among Asian Americans and Asian countries. As such, the stereotype of “crazy rich Asians” can neither be applied to the majority of people of Asian descent living in North America nor Asian countries. This wealthy demographic only allots for a portion of the population, but a small, influential portion with robust purchasing power.
The very wealthy Chinese households are, of course, powerful drivers of growth for luxury and the prime target for luxury brands. However, according to a report done by Martin Roll Business & Brand Management, the rising Chinese middle-class, consisting of households with monthly incomes between $2,600 USD and $3,900 USD have become the fast-rising consumer segment in China – they have become the subject of much attention from global brands. In the next three to five years, Chinese consumers between the ages of 25 and 30 will be the prevailing group in luxury consumption. This demographic of China’s new middle class is termed “Generation 2”. [6]
Brands cannot afford to overlook the Asian and Asian American community. Brands that hope to capitalize on this growing demographic have to make sure they are including and serving the Asian market. [5] Speaking specifically about luxury fashion, brands need to work harder at including Asian talent from the first steps of production to selling the final product.
Now more than ever, in part due to the COVID-19 pandemic, there has been heightened “cultural sensitivities'' in the luxury market. As Western luxury brands have focused on the Chinese consumers for growth, their cultural carelessness has been reflected in a lot of culturally inappropriate mistakes. Take for example the notorious Dolce & Gabbana campaign featuring an Asian model eating pizza with chopsticks, just to name one of many. [4]
The sad conclusion one can make based on this information is that the luxury fashion market wants Asian sales and revenue, without implementing Asian perspective and influence into the business, branding, and marketing of the products themselves.
However, what’s even more impressive than Asia’s current buying power is it’s own future. Global management consulting firm, Bain & Company, expects that Chinese consumers will make more than half of luxury goods purchases by 2025 when global sales are expected to reach €320-330 billion ($346-357 billion USD). That means the Asian market would have to gain some 15% more market share in only five years, a pretty staggering and aggressive expectation that luxury brands better look out for. [4]
Instead of white-washing the luxury fashion scene, brands should be opting to authentically reflect the audience that they sell to. Not by including cliches, ignorant stereotypes, or a “one size fits all” perspective of the Asian and Asian American market segment.
Similar to the movement to be more inclusive of Black talent and professionals at all levels of the supply chain, luxury fashion brands should be expected to make those same efforts in the Asian community. Lip service is no longer a viable option. Real change takes hard work, education, time, and input from a wide range of individuals of all different races, ethnicities, and identities.
Sources:
1. Adela Suliman, “Nike, H&M, Burberry face backlash and boycotts in China over stance on Uyghur treatment”, NBC News, March 25, 2021. https://www.nbcnews.com/news/world/nike-h-m-face-backlash-china-over-xinjiang-cotton-concerns-n1262019
2. Alexa Tietjen, “Fashion Designers, Beauty Community Speak Out as Industry Stays Mum on Anti-Asian Violence”, WWD, February 24, 2021. https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-features/fashion-beauty-prabal-gurung-phillip-lim-jason-wu-anti-asian-violence-hate-diversity-inclusion-1234737038-1234737038/
3. Alex Kessler and Emily Chan, “Anna Sui, Soo Joo Park, and More Fashion Leaders on the Importance of Standing Up Against Anti-Asian Racism”, Vogue, March 24, 2021. https://www.vogue.com/article/fashion-leaders-on-the-importance-of-standing-up-against-anti-asian-racism
4. Pamela N. Danziger, “Fate Of Luxury Depends On China, But Continued Success There Is Not Guaranteed”, Forbes, May 15, 2020. https://www.forbes.com/sites/pamdanziger/2020/05/15/fate-of-luxury-depends-on-china-but-continued-success-there-is-not-guaranteed/?sh=319f55bf530c
5. Rosa Escandon, “Asian American Consumer Market Is Now $1.2 Trillion And What That Means For Digital Brands”, Forbes, May 22, 2020. https://www.forbes.com/sites/rosaescandon/2020/05/22/asian-american-consumer-market-is-now-12-trillion-and-what-that-means-for-digital-brands/?sh=3fc170663620
6. “Chinese Luxury Consumers – Trends and Challenges for Luxury Brands”, Martin Roll Business & Brand Management, October 2020. https://martinroll.com/resources/articles/asia/chinese-luxury-consumers-trends-and-challenges-for-luxury-brands/
]]>In 2015, Diana found herself moving back to Toronto, after working overseas for many years in Asia, in the banking industry. Because she was fabulous to begin with, she, of course, came with a massive closet (and suitcases!) full of luxury handbags and accessories of her own collection. Determined to declutter and trim down her “stuff” in the limited space that is Toronto condos, Diana set out to find the best option to consign a lot of her goods. Not satisfied with the offerings in Canada, Diana realized there was a gap in the luxury fashion market here. The consignment stores in Canada were not of the same caliber — lacking in quality, value and most definitely selection.
And just like that, the concept of Lux Second Chance was developed. Diana reached out to her own friends and network to figure out the steps in starting one’s own business and how she could get this concept off the ground. The financing for this endeavour was actually the endeavour itself; it began with 23 of her very own designer handbags.
Even though Diana came to the game with no fashion background herself (besides being an avid consumer), what she did have was years of training as an interest rate derivatives analyst and bond trader. Naturally, the understanding of buying and selling goods, knowing the value of said goods, and working a marketplace was nothing new to Diana and she used this to her advantage. This existing knowledge, mixed with her passion for circular, eco-conscious consumption, led to the drive and success that took her to where we are today.
Ahead of International Women’s Day, I wanted to talk to Diana about her journey as a female entrepreneur, CEO, and all around boss babe (I still cringe at this term, but I haven’t found a replacement for it). Let’s get her talking!
TH: I know we’re starting with a pretty broad question, but as a female CEO, what does International Women's Day mean to you in particular?
DN: It's about empowering women to be able to do whatever we want because we deserve it! Believe that boundaries are limitless. Women are underrepresented and under-appreciated. Women naturally are nurturers so we think of others before we think of ourselves. There is nothing wrong about thinking of others but are we thinking of ourselves first? Empowering women to have a voice and to self love ourselves. We too need to take care of our mind and our body. Nothing is more important than the love for ones self. Believe that we can do and have it all, however, we must prioritize ourselves first.
TH: When beginning on the Lux Second Chance endeavour, what was the biggest barrier to you?
DN: Besides not knowing what I was doing!? I think the biggest barrier was that I’m not a techy person, who wanted to build a tech company. I thought I needed a tech background in order to build Lux Second Chance out the way it is now. Once you break that barrier down by realizing you don't need to know how to code, you just need to find that person who understands what you want to build (same vision) that has a tech background. No one knows everything, we just have to know where to find that one thing and take it from there.
TH: Did you ever find that you came across any unique barriers presented to you as a female founder and CEO, particularly in tech or the resale market?
DN: I belong to tech incubators and I get training courses that range from business model and team to how to approach investors and VCs. What I hear all the time is that women are underfunded. Majority of the time, investors and/or VCs are males. I think women are underfunded because women start companies that men don’t use or don’t understand, so therefore, they don’t want to invest in them. Men are hesitant to invest if they don’t use the product or service so they don't understand the company. They can’t relate, therefore, they can’t relate to us.
TH: I guess this leads nicely into the next question. As a successful female entrepreneur, what advice would you give to other female entrepreneurs?
DN: You just keep going! Keep asking a lot of questions! Don’t be afraid to ask the questions, even if you think they’re silly questions, you won’t know until you ask. Ask for help when you need it also. Reach out to your network and ask for help or else it’s going to be a real struggle. When building a startup, you really, really need a whole village to help. And people are willing to help! Don’t ever be afraid to reach out to that person that may be 5 or 10 years ahead of you in your entrepreneurial journey, they want to help you!
TH: How do you see the luxury resale landscape shaping up to be in the next 5 years? 10 years?
DN: I actually didn't expect it to explode during the pandemic! I believe in the next 5 years it’s going to grow even faster! People get it. I think the pandemic has made people realize a lot about our Earth and wastage and how we consume. For us to spend more on high quality goods that lasts longer, I think that's what's natural now. Now for people to buy fast-fashion is what it was like to buy resale 5-10 years ago.
TH: You’re totally right. Nowadays when people say fast-fashion, they’re like “ew” and honestly, people were thinking that of resale, or even Value Village and Goodwill, as recently as five years ago.
DN: Exactly! I find that now everyone wants one piece of vintage in an outfit. All the influencers want it now! Some people can go into a vintage store and completely put together an outfit. I find I can’t do that. That’s why I like a site like mine because it’s very organized, clean and easy to find things. I can’t deal with clutter and racks, it just drives me nuts!
TH: Hold on, that brings up a good question. I have to ask this, because you literally have a whole store of luxury goods at your fingertips at any given time: do you go shopping in your own store, and is it more often than you’d like to admit?
DN: Ugh YES! During the pandemic it was so busy, so I wasn’t shopping as much, but when it’s slower I shop more! I've been shopping resale for about 15 years so this isn't new to me. It's just that I get to shop on my own website now. And you know what? I don't feel guilty about shopping, I know it will never hit the landfill. That's the beauty of luxury resale.
TH: I hate this term, but honestly female CEO sounds too specific because you don’t have to be a CEO to be a boss or the one in charge or whatever, but who are the other “boss babes” you look to for inspiration?
DN: When I started my company I started reading about similar CEOs that have companies like mine; the ones that came before me like Julie Wainwright from TheRealReal to Tracy DiNunzio of Tradesy. And then the recent one, which I actually read about her many years ago, is Bumble’s CEO Whitney Wolfe! The thing about all of them is that they all went through some kind of hurdle before they actually became who they are. When you go through a change in your life, that’s how you get the idea and run with it because what do you have to lose in a sense? I was actually reading about them to understand the business and then I read their backgrounds and what made them start their existing companies. I really believe you can do anything you put your mind to if you have the grit and tenacity, but you have to put in the work by starting!
I look back on the early days of my company. Like the days of handing flyers out at Union Station because that’s how I promoted my company. I was trying to catch the Bay Street people, the ones that I used to be, as they walked to work in the morning. I look back at those days and it’s like, “Oh man, I can’t believe I did that.” I know! I was willing to do anything!
TH: So my next question then would be: what is your proudest moment thus far?
DN: I think for me, I always thought I would build this company aggregating Canadian consignment stores for Canadians. But then it got me thinking, wouldn't it be 10x better if I had selection from other parts of the world on one website? That’s when it changed a lot in the inventory selection and in the amount of inventory. I brought other parts of the world to my website while offering it back to the rest of the world! That was my proudest moment. Every year I on-boarded new stores from a new country; 2017 was the U.S., 2018 Paris, and in 2019 it was London!
TH: That’s awesome! The last question I have here is, what is one thing that you unexpectedly found out about yourself through this journey?
DN: Ohhhh patience! Prior to Lux Second Chance I had very little patience! When I was working for the bank everything had to be done like yesterday. In working in a startup you need patience. Things take time to build. A successful company doesn’t build overnight. You have to see the small incremental changes and celebrate them. As long as you can see even a slow progression, then you’re successful! Also, learning from your failures is a form of success. Before this I was very impatient. Meditation helps. As long as you can see your vision in the horizon, with patience you will get there.
TH: I’m going to wrap this up with some rapid fire questions. Ready to give your quick answer?
Tea or coffee? Coffee 100%
Chanel or Dior? Duh, Chanel!
Red or pink? Pink
Marilyn or Audrey? Audrey!
Leather or suede? Leather
Classics or trends? Classics!
Films or TV shows? Films
Beach destination or Euro destination? Euro! I like the beach but I don’t like the sun! LOL
Influencers or classic style icons? Classic style icons
Absolute favourite piece in your wardrobe: Anything Chanel!
]]>As we putter through January, it’s not too late to set your goals and resolutions for 2021! We’re talking in particular about fashion-related goals that are not only good for you and the environment, but also feasible enough that you can make them your All Year resolutions, as opposed to a New Year’s resolution.
]]>Society as a whole, consumes fashion at an astonishing rate; similar to the way we consume food, media, and entertainment. This is why it is more important than ever to be intentional with your purchasing habits and your relationship with your wardrobe. Here are our top eight ways to get you there!
We’re possibly starting off with the easiest, and the one we know people are already doing, and that’s shopping more “safely”, (i.e. online). This pandemic isn’t going anywhere and depending on what part of the world you live in, in-store shopping for non-essentials (aka fashion) is a thing of the past. The COVID-19 pandemic just catapulted online shopping into overdrive with no intention of slowing down! We encourage all Luxers to get comfortable with the new normal for consuming fashion products and check out some of our past blogs to get the most of your online shopping experience.
No, this isn’t just a buzz word we want to throw around; we want you to take it seriously. Given all the resources out there currently, this resolution has never been easier! We know it’s a big ask to suggest that every product you own or buy should now come from an ethically-backed company, but you can always start small and go from there! Try giving up fast-fashion or brands that utilize sweatshops to make their products. Start by researching brands you are looking to buy from and see what their ethical practices are.
We understand that the word “ethic” is very broad, but it’s a good way to start as our following resolutions also fall along those lines.
Once again, this is becoming easier than ever! Not only that, the negative connotation of the resale market has been completely reformed over the past decade, so we all might as well embrace it! Make the resale market your new first choice for consuming fashion (or anything for that matter!), not just a once in a while browse. Support more brands that value sustainability and look into their sustainability practices on their websites. Not only will you be helping the environment, chances are you’re saving money as well!
A good practice to start is factoring in price per wear. Is that flimsy top from H&M going to pill as soon as you start wearing and washing it? Will the outfit you’re looking at still be in style in 5 years time? Are you rationalizing your inexpensive, low quality purchase with “well even if I get 5 wears out of it, it’ll be worth the buy!”. Stop that! Shopping for quality pieces, even though you know they will be more expensive, will actually save money in the long run when you factor in price per wear. Invest in your clothes and they'll show you the return! [1]
The same rule applies if you’re ever considering reselling your fashion pieces or accessories on the resale market. This requires investing in quality pieces that will not only stand the test of time, but also the wear that comes with it. Not only that, but is your piece considered a hot commodity? Does it generally perform well on the resale market? These are all the things you need to take into consideration when looking to invest in quality pieces.
This is also an easier one to incorporate into your wardrobe resolutions for 2021. Even the biggest fashionistas sometimes need reminders that accessories shouldn’t just be an after-thought, but a starring role in your well-incorporated looks. At Lux Second Chance, we provide a great place to start scooping out those killer accessory looks!
It can be as simple as going with a bolder handbag as opposed to your staple black. Maybe switching up your jewelry for some statement necklaces. The best part about accessories is that you can have more fun with them than clothes! There’s less rules and more opportunities to add that extra wow factor into any look!
Yes, it’s necessary! If you haven’t already found time during lockdown to really go through and detox your wardrobe, a new year is a great excuse! Not only that, studies have shown that it’s actually good for your mental health (and who doesn’t need help with that in January?). [2]
Keeping something because you’re waiting for the right occasion to wear it? Things like evening wear or occasional wear tend to become dated faster than regular daywear. Don’t hopelessly hold on to these pieces!
Keeping that great pair of jeans that can’t do up or a slinky dress that’s just a little too tight to wear? Many people want to look how they used to, or they may want to look a certain way in the future. Although we justify keeping these items as “aspirational clothing”, saving an item of clothing that doesn’t fit is only going to bring negativity to mind when you see it. [2]
Now, when you’re down with this exercise (and we recommend doing this at least bi-annually), remember, those clothes/accessories do not go in the garbage (unless they are truly garbage and no longer salvageable)! You can either a) bring them to your closest charity that accepts these types of donations, b) donate them to your closest second-hand store, c) bring them to a consignment store and make some cash on your discarded clothes or d) utilize the online resale market to make your cash!
This is a great point to follow with after detoxing your wardrobe. Once you’ve made some tough decisions and parted ways with your unwanted pieces, please don’t give yourself permission to regain all that loss with new items. This defeats the purpose of the detox. Influencers, fashion brands, and environmentalists alike (random combo, we know) are encouraging people more and more to shop consciously. This relates back to shopping more ethically and sustainably, but it’s mostly talking to the “why” of shopping.
Are you shopping out of boredom? Do you really need that new piece of clothing? Have you nothing else in your wardrobe that you can use for that specific purpose you’re shopping for? Are you justifying that it’s a good price, but you actually don’t need it at all? Will it still be in great condition years from now? Can you find it on the resale market instead?
These are the questions we should be asking ourselves when making purchases in an attempt to not contribute to conspicuous consumption, and ultimately, the negative effects it has on our environment.
Yes, it does seem like we’ve outlined a lot of “rules” or “guidelines” in this blog, but fashion should be fun! If something isn’t bringing you extreme joy, then you probably shouldn’t buy it or keep it. Fashion and shopping--when done properly--can provide us with a form of fun and entertainment. If it’s not, then we are probably doing it for the wrong reasons! Keep this in mind as you head into a new year and see how it can positively affect your shopping habits and behaviours!
Until next time, happy new year and happy shopping, Luxers!
Sources:
Love fashion? Great at scouting out a deal? Then maybe your type of smart investment lies in the resale luxury market.
]]>Love fashion? Great at scouting out a deal? Then maybe your type of smart investment lies in the resale luxury market.
Diversifying into the luxury resale market right now doesn’t seem any crazier than trying to figure out what the market will do next. [1] With the looming effects of COVID-19, international travel restrictions, and a new US President about to take his seat, the traditional stock market seems like the greater risk right now.
Of course, every time you read one of these blogs or articles talking about the value of high-end fashion pieces, you hear experts time and time again regale the example of the Hermès Birkin Bag. The infamous bag has gone up in value by 500% in the last 35 years — a figure that outpaced the price of gold. [1] If that doesn’t put dollar signs in your eyes, I don’t know what will! Yes, having the ability to fork out over $15,000 on an investment bag is not a reality for most, but have no fear! There are still a lot of smart, introductory pieces that can be more financially accessible and still turn a worthy profit.
Even if you have no intention of playing the market, we think it’s really smart to know the ultimate value of any expensive item you purchase. Like a car or a house, designer fashions and accessories have resale values. According to the Knight Frank Luxury Investment Index in 2019, handbags were a far better investment than art. While art had an overall return of 5%, handbags clocked in at a 13% gain. [1]
According to resale marketplace ThredUp’s 2019 Resale Report, the secondhand market for luxury goods will reach $51 billion by 2023, more than double the $24 billion in 2018. [2] And the best news yet? Here at Lux Second Chance, the demand for investment pieces haven't faltered since the pandemic hit. We’ve seen a 25% month-over-month increase in demand for high-value handbags. People are becoming more conscious of how they consume and are gravitating towards classic investment pieces in case they want to consign the piece in the future. We have a lot of vintage handbags coming from our Paris location that has also held particularly strong.
Yes, all luxury fashion is a treasurer in and of itself, but not all that glitters is gold. Some pieces perform much better than others on the resale market and knowing which ones outperform the competition will get you on your way to making smart investment choices in your luxury buys. Certain brands and styles can resell for nearly as much as (or perhaps more than) you originally paid for it! [4] Timeless investment pieces and vintage classics will always remain in style. Iconic designs, like a Hermès Birkin, will forever be fashionable and are worth the money as they hold their value over time.
To generalize the resale markets, in times like these, you may opt to err on the side of classic investment pieces rather than the latest hot novelty. Topping the list of your leading sure bets are the Hermès Birkin, the Hermès Kelly, Chanel Medium Classic Flap, Louis Vuitton Neverfull, Chanel Boy Bag, Gucci GG Marmont, and Lady Dior. [1]
However, timely trends have also shown to be big players in the game as of late. The Supreme X Louis Vuitton shoulder bag cost up to $2,400 when it debuted in 2017. Recently, one was available on the luxury resale site, The RealReal, for $6,000. Despite the 150% markup, The RealReal called it a “smart investment”. [2]
The recent resurgence of the Dior Saddle Bag trend has seen resale values for the bag soar at a whopping 373% since it came back in style, according to The RealReal’s Luxury Resale Report for 2019. [2]
Although both these examples wouldn’t be deemed “classic standards” or staples, they are a good example of playing to the trends, which does require a bit more strategy and diligence.
Another notable factor in driving the resale price and demand of particular luxury brands is a designer’s departure from a brand. When Phoebe Philo left French fashion house Celine, The RealReal says resale value jumped 30% as year-over-year demand rose by nearly a third. The death of a designer has a similar effect. After Kate Spade’s death from suicide in June 2018, customers with an emotional connection to the brand sought out her purses, driving up prices. [2] We saw the same effect take place when the beloved Karl Lagerfeld passed away in 2019 causing a trend and price surge in Lagerfeld-era Chanel and Fendi products.
Fine jewelry, watches, and handbags are always smart investments, since they hold strong resale value or even appreciate in value over time. Timeless classics and in-demand model handbags generally sell faster than clothing does, since they’re more versatile and less prone to wear. Fine jewelry and handbags are something buyers are always looking to invest in, especially when they’re made to last and well cared for.
Iconic styles from classic luxury brands have historically always retained their value and in some instances can also increase in value over time, like the Chanel classic flap bag and the Hermès Birkin bag. Limited-edition pieces are also something to consider. Rarity drives up the price. A one-of-a-kind colour or special collection increases the demand and holds interest over time as a collector’s item.
On many occasions, certain pieces come back in style, so it’s good to hold on to items that might not be valuable right now. Most importantly, take good care of your pieces so they don’t lose their value. Always invest in their care—if damaged, take your leather goods to a professional who can easily make them like new again.
As previously mentioned, the secondhand market for luxury goods will reach $51 billion by 2023, more than double the $24 billion in 2018. Intriguingly enough, the luxury market is where resale is having an interesting/disruptive effect (driven by innovative business models) as the ability to buy used luxury goods (at a discount) introduces the brands to new customers. Having the ability to earn residual/resale value also spurs more sales through the primary channels, according to Wells Fargo analysts. [2]
Traditionally high-end luxury brands have always disassociated themselves with the resale or secondhand market as some believed it diluted the image of the brand, allowed more middle-class clients to purchase their products, and ultimately disrupted the general flow of consistently offering the newest trends, as opposed to existing ones. Now luxury brands know they can no longer run from the inevitable, so they’re embracing it! According to an article for Forbes magazine [4], both Burberry and Gucci have created marketing arrangements with secondhand - a key part of those arrangements is an effort to get closer to the consumer who wants luxury, but cares about environmental impact and other values. As consignment shopping thrives during the coronavirus-driven e-commerce boom and consumer demand shifts toward sustainability, high-end labels are definitely now tapping into this market. [5]
On top of sustainability concerns, there is also economic logic that will evolve with the luxury recommerce market. Just like the auto industry where the pre-owned car market has overtaken the new model market for luxury cars, the secondhand market is expected to overtake the designer market for high fashion. [5]
Consumption you can feel better about? That’s the whole concept of the resale market! As consumers become more aware of the ecological impact of apparel production, they’re more frequently demanding apparel businesses expand their commitment to sustainability. Buying secondhand clothing provides consumers a way to push back against the fast-fashion system. [6]
In efforts to not only boost revenue streams, but also push for sustainability, brands like Gucci are breaking down the exclusivity barriers. “What this means for the luxury tier and how it will evolve is that brands will not try to distance themselves from the secondary market, which was the case in the past,” Ben Hemminger, CEO of luxury resale company Fashionphile, told FOX Business in an article from October of this year. He went on to state, “Brands will not only start to embrace it and increase their access to it, but also have a more sustainable business”. [5]
To end on an especially positive note, researchers who study clothing consumption and sustainability think the secondhand clothing trend has the potential to reshape the fashion industry and mitigate the industry’s detrimental environmental impact on the planet. [6] Though many thought for a second that sustainability was momentarily moved to the backburner during the COVID-19 crisis, Sarah Willersdorf, global head of luxury at Boston Consulting Group, told Forbes magazine last month [4], “Covid was the first time that a lot of people realized that their individual actions have societal consequences.” Sustainability is here to stay and brands need to include it in their products, packaging and delivery systems.
Happy investing, Luxers! xoxo
Sources:
Numerous writers (Tina Brown, Elizabeth Holmes) notice that after the separation from Prince Charles was actually when Princess Diana’s fashion became her most exciting and confident. During their marriage, as a member of the royal family, she had to follow “protocols and properness of monarchy.” She was supposed to wear and endorse local designers and brands. “Diana never looked better than in the days after her divorce”, states her biographer Tina Brown. Award-winning fashion journalist Sarah Mower in the article about Lady Di and her bags, states that “the glossy European status bag was a symbol of independence after her separation from Prince Charles”. That was when we noticed her handbag game became really strong after that one iconic moment.
The moment that has forever got imprinted in fashion history as an ultimate “revenge dressing” is of course her appearance on the night of June 29, 1994 - the night when Prince Charles confessed to the whole country his infidelity to his wife and acknowledged his relationship with Camilla Parker-Bowles. What was supposed to be all over the front page the next morning was overshadowed by the short black off-the-shoulders mini-dress by Christina Stambolian worn by Princess Diana to an event at Serpentine Gallery. In his book “100 Unforgettable Dresses” Hal Rubinstein describes, Lady Diana “stepped out of a car, looking ravishing and flagrantly audacious, her gym toned body poured into Stambolian’s all-ruches black dress, its sleeves pulled down as low as the neckline, its minitrain flying off her hip as she strutted down the sidewalk in a pair of killer black stilettos - and a winning smile”. What writer's didn't mention was that she paired the look with a small black clutch by Salvatore Ferragamo Vara bow clutch; she was holding by her red-manicured hands.
According to Rubenstein, Princess Diana ordered this dress from Christina Stambolian’s boutique in London in 1991, three years prior, without even knowing the occasion she might ever wear such a “daring" dress [14]. But three years later it became her second-most-photographed dress she ever wore and that graced the front page of every London newspaper. It even got a publication in Telegraph on its twenty-fifth anniversary (the dress had its own anniversary mention and not Prince Charles’ interview)! Up until today, Rihanna recalls this moment as “this Diana bad b**ch moment” that blew her away [1].
In her earlier looks, Princess Diana’s handbags were less branded and identifiable. According to Sarah Mower, during her royal appearances to get a precise colour-match, her discreet evening envelope-style bags were often made by her dressmakers rather than designer handbag firms [7]. Unlike the black Ferragamo clutch, which is why it was an important moment not just for the “Revenge dress” but also Lady Di’s relationship with fashion. As an ultimate style icon, it can be seen not only through her memorable looks, enduring influence on style but also her personal friendships with designers, like Gianni Versace. She is credited to give birth to the “It-bag” movement [7] and also there isn't just one, not even two, but FOUR luxury handbags that are named after her.
The first handbag is of course, an iconic Lady Dior by Christina Dior. The legend says that during Princess Diana’s visit to Paris in 1995 for Cezanne Art Exhibition, the First Lady of France, Madame Bernadette Chirac, gave Lady Di, the latest handbag design by Dior, as a diplomatic gift. Created in 1994 under the creative direction of Gianfranco Ferre, the tote was first called “Chouchou,” which means “Favorite” in French [5],[8]. Lady Diana fell instantly in love with the bag, and as the most photographed woman in the world, the bag was highly photographed on the arm of one of the world’s most beloved woman of all time. The “Lady Dior” handbag became an instant success. In honour of Lady Di, Dior decided to rename its iconic bag and pay tribute to the Princess of Wales, and since 1996, the bag has been known as the “Lady Dior” handbag.
Marie Claire reports that the late Princess loved it so much, she ordered the bag in every colour [6][9].
This was the time when Lady Di’s divorce from Price Charles finalized, so the handbag also became a symbol of her new-found freedom, both personal and sartorial. She has been photographed wearing the variation of the bag multiple times, for official, gala and state visits. Most memorably she paired it with a tangerine Versace suit on a visit to Liverpool that year, and with a John Galliano for Dior slip to the Met Gala in 1996, devoted to 50 years of Christian Dior [10]. That was the only Met Gala that she attended [6].
Great selection of Lady Dior bags available at Lux Second Chance -
https://luxsecondchance.com/search?q=lady+dior
Another Salvatore Ferragamo purse that was favoured by Princess Diana so much that now bears her name, is called the Lady D handbag. According to Sarah Mower, in 1990 Lady Di began buying from Italian brand Salvatore Ferragamo. Overall Diana had more than 20 calfskin Ferragamo bags with distinctive gold-hooped Gancio clasps. She has been seen wearing those multiple times, paired with business suits in different colours, from neutrals to kelly green, matching them with her variety of Ferragamo crossbody bags.
Selection of Salvatore Ferragamo - https://luxsecondchance.com/collections/salvatore-ferragamo
After the divorce, many of Princess Diana's appearances were photographed of her leaving the gym and during those appearances she was often spotted wearing the Tod’s tote bag. As with everything that Princess Diana’s name was associated with, it became very popular and soon after her passing in 1997, Tod’s renamed the tote as D Bag .
Diego Della Valle, the son of the company’s founder, revealed why it was such a natural decision to name the bag after Diana. "She was an incredible supporter of our product," he told the Times in an interview. He explained that the Princess of Wales had discovered Tod’s herself, by browsing in the shops, unlike many high-profile women these days who are gifted with the bags they carry in order to generate press coverage. "It was interesting for us because she used the D-Bag in many different situations, between official dinners or when she was in Africa," he added [12].
In 2019 it was relaunched as a D-Styling bag [11] and has a slightly different look - more of a satchel than the original tote, favoured by Lady Di. Since the original D Bag was discontinued, for the feature film “Diana” starring Naomi Watts, Tod's made sure that the leading actress would be able to carry the original tan D-Bag that the Princess of Wales owned [17].
Today, fans of Princess Diana's iconic style can either shop the new Tod's D-Styling Bag or hunt for vintage treasures on websites like Lux Second Chance.
https://luxsecondchance.com/collections/tods
Anya Hindmarch and “Cleavage” bags
British luxury handbag designer Anya Hindmarch, who is famous for her “I’m not a plastic tote” bag, opened her first boutique in Chelsea in 1993 and Princess Diana soon became a great supporter of her company. In the interview to Telegraph, Hindmarch told that "She was a very loyal customer and a lot of fun”. So much fun, that the royal kept her appointments very informal. And it was Princess Diana, who came up with a cheeky name for the project they were working on. According to Hindmarch, "We used to laugh when we designed what she called her 'cleavage bags,' little satin clutches which she would cover her cleavage with when she stepped out of cars.” [16] The term definitely got right to the heart of it. Every time Diana stepped out of a car in a low-cut dress, her purse shielded her chest from photographers, trying to capture her in unflattering or embarrassing situations. Now, the “cleavage bag” is considered as one of the signatures of the red carpet style of the People’s Princess.
Anya Hindmarch bags available here - https://luxsecondchance.com/collections/anya-hindmarch
Although there is an urban legend saying that Princess Diana didn't wear Chanel after the divorce because of interlocking CC [13], that can also signify Charles and Camilla, she actually did a couple of appearances with Chanel handbags and shoes.
The first memorable opportunity for her to wear a Chanel handbag was in November 1988, on a royal tour to Paris, France, because that was allowed to be seen as a diplomatic gesture, as a nod to a hosting country. [7] She was wearing a red coat paired with a classic Chanel flap bag. Meanwhile on most other occasions she was supposed to support local English brands.
She was spotted with other Chanel handbags a handful of times. During one of her last appearances in June 1997, speaking in support of the Red Cross landmine campaign in Washington, she wore a lilac business suit and a white Chanel handbag with top handle, as well as in New York, at the auction event of her outfits for AIDS charity.
In the mid-90’s Princess Diana established a nice friendship with designer Gianni Versace. He created some of her chicest outfits of the decade, including business suits and red-carpet gowns. Their friendship was the most fruitful in the years when Gianni was at his prime and where Lady Di found herself. According to his interview in 1997, Versace notes how “serene” she was. He continues, “It is a moment in her life, I think, when she’s found herself - the way she wants to live”. [3]
She wore his handbags and accessories as well. In 1997 after his assassination, she was memorably wearing a glossy python Versace handbag, to his memorial service in Milano, as a final tribute to a maestro and her friend. Very soon afterwards she passed away too.
Versace selection - https://luxsecondchance.com/collections/versace
Gucci and Louis Vuitton
Some other luxury brands that were photographed in Princess Diana’s hands later in the 1990’s include Gucci and Louis Vuitton.
In the mid-90’s Lady Diana was photographed shopping on Bond Street, running errands or leaving her gym with a big suede taupe Gucci tote with bamboo handles. As of now, the brand has no connection or stories regarding their relationship with the former Princess of Wales.
In 2017 Gucci relaunched a tote with bamboo handles under the name “Bamboo Forever”. You can find similar on Lux Second Chance website.
Similar Gucci bag -
https://luxsecondchance.com/search?q=gucci+bamboo
With a Louis Vuitton pouch, Lady Diana was photographed in one of her last paparazzi photos while vacationing on a yacht in St. Tropez, France with Dodi Al-Fayed. To be exact, that was August 22, 1997- a week before her death.
Similar Louis Vuitton pouch can be found here -
https://luxsecondchance.com/search?q=louis+vuitton+toiletry
Looking back at these photos, one can only imagine how Princess Diana's handbag collection could have expanded if only her life hadn't abrupt so suddenly!
Sources:
1. https://garage.vice.com/en_us/article/434ggd/rihanna-princess-diana
2. https://www.wmagazine.com/story/how-virgil-abloh-off-white-paid-tribute-princess-diana-paris/
3. Elizabeth Holmes, “HRH: so many thoughts on royal style”, Celadon Books, New York, 2020
4. Hal Rubenstetin “100 Unforgettable dresses”, Harper Design, New York, 2011
5. https://www.tatler.com/article/dior-lady-art-bags
6. https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/fashion/princess-diana-dior-handbag-17696
7. https://www.dailymail.co.uk/femail/article-4751792/Diana-birth-Bag.html
8. http://dianalegacy.com/princess-dianas-insanely-luxurious-handbags/
10. https://www.vogue.co.uk/gallery/style-file-diana-princess-of-wales?image=5f468ebabae3dd1c942e1778
11. https://www.instyle.com/fashion/accessories/bags/tods-d-bag-update
13. https://www.harpersbazaar.com.au/fashion/why-princess-diana-didnt-wear-chanel-1-16400
14. https://www.rd.com/article/story-princess-dianas-revenge-dress/
15. https://stylecaster.com/hailey-bieber-princess-diana-photoshoot-reactions/
16. https://www.goodhousekeeping.com/beauty/fashion/news/a44343/diana-cleavage-bags/
17. https://www.huffpost.com/entry/princess-diana-tods-bag_n_3842865
18. https://fashiondigestlondon.com/chanel-bags-that-have-been-overlooked-non-classics/
]]>
We dare say even stop reading this blog and get to work! But don’t do that, because we are going to offer so much insight and tips to make your holiday shopping much easier. So keep reading (then get shopping)!
Now that we are in November, time is ticking! A lot of North American retailers are honoring the fact that the holiday shopping season must start earlier this year, and therefore, are offering their Black Friday and Cyber Monday deals in October and early November! [2] With in-person shopping being a luxury of the past, online shopping will be the way to go this year. With everyone online shopping, shipping will become an absolute nightmare. With shipping being an absolute nightmare, you run the risk of not having gifts to put under the tree by Christmas time and definitely no wiggle room for quick returns or exchanges.
We’ve been encouraged all year to stay home and avoid going out for anything that isn’t deemed essential. As much as holiday shopping seems essential, there are ways to do it safely. 2020 isn’t the year for door crashers, tight aisle at the store, and long lines at the cash registers to get the most out of your holiday shopping. With many retailers having to make the intentional transition to online sales to stay afloat this year, most of your favourite brands and stores are now at your fingertips. To avoid Black Friday doorbusters, companies are expected to try and intentionally steer many shoppers to their websites to avoid in-store crowds and chaos [2].
COVID-19 has really been an accelerator in the already existing trend we see retailers making from brick and mortar stores to an online shopping platform. The effects of the pandemic on holiday shopping could last well into the future and things may never be the same again for retailers. As Jeff Doucette of Field Agent Canada states, “I think that’s going to affect brick and mortar retailers a lot over the coming years,” seemingly reiterated what we’ve all suspected for some time now [1].
To further this point, a study conducted by Salesforce Inc. showed that 58% of consumers said they expect to do more online shopping after the pandemic than they did before it [4]. It’s obviously clear that online shopping is here to stay.
Need a quick decision-maker when deciding between two products to purchase online? Check where the product is shipping from and its estimated shipping date. This really could make all the difference in taking stress off your plate and actually confirming that you’ll have something to wrap before Christmas morning.
Knowing full well that shipping will be a nightmare this year due to EVERYONE shopping online, when you can, choose online options that are shipping from your own country or close by [1]. But if trans-Atlantic flights are required to get your product to you, expect delays, or setbacks, in the hustle and bustle of the busiest time of the year so shop as early as possible!
And there’s more than just online sales to consider. With more than 40% of holiday shoppers shipping most of their gifts (whether bought online or in-person) due to the fact that they won’t be traveling to see family and friends because of the pandemic, this will also add to normal shipping traffic [3].
A common theme for those “hard to buy for” people on our list is to gift them experiences over physical things. This has also been a conscious decision for many who try and avoid conspicuous consumption and contributing less to retail waste. As much as we love this idea, 2020 has proven to not be the year for such things.
Depending on where you live in the world (for the Lux team, that’s mainly Toronto, Canada), fancy restaurants, concerts, entertainment experiences, spa days, and trips are currently on pause. And while we definitely want to stay optimistic about what the future holds, we cannot be certain that these types of luxuries will be accessible to us for some time. While you can find loopholes and definitely want to support local businesses, a gift card or certificates may be hard to use for the foreseeable future for most. It may be the easier option to gift your loved ones physical products over I-owe-you experiences.
Since we are all being encouraged to stay at home as much as possible, it has created a lot more free time for some. Without the commute to work, the holiday parties, the weekend getaways, the vacations, and the hours of shopping at the mall, we have more time now than ever to thoroughly shop around. Compare deals, prices, shipping estimates, and everything else from the comfort of your own home.
Shopping around online will save you a lot of time and money as opposed to doing it in-person. With the world at our fingertips, there’s really no excuse this year!
We feel like this one is pretty self-explanatory. If there was something we had to get use to in 2020 it was lines. Lines to get groceries, lines at the gym, lines at our favourite stores; and that wasn’t even during a peak shopping season! To avoid this (and the great moods everyone in these lines will be in!) try to avoid peak shopping hours like evening and weekends. Take it one step further by avoiding peak places like major shopping centres and scout out places to shop local. Not only are local shops less chaotic then the over-populated shopping centres, you’ll find some real treasurers in a potentially quieter part of town!
To expand on our previous point, you may need to get more creative with avoiding the Christmas crowds this year. More importantly, 2020 has been the toughest on small businesses. Amazon does not need more of your money this year, but the small mom and pop store in town does! Not only does it truly mean something special to someone when you shop local, but it’s much more likely that you’ll find something super unique as well!
You know we always encourage sustainable shopping practices whenever we can, since that is what our business is built around. There may be some real holiday gems just waiting to be discovered!
We know it sounds stressful to give yourself a “deadline”, but honestly, this year you need it! Seemingly middle-ground shoppers (not super early, not super last minute), might give themselves a deadline of mid-December to have all of their shopping done. This year, we recommend being done by December. With shipping potentially being an ordeal and a mad-dash to the mall a lot more risky this year, you have to take all of this into consideration for your own sake. 2020 has been stressful enough; don’t end it on a stressful note for the sake of scrambling to fit in all your holiday shopping last minute.
From all of us at Lux Second Chance, we wish you a happy holiday shopping season and love and blessings going into 2021! Remember, we are always just a few clicks away offering luxury gift ideas, and authentic designer finds to really wow those on your shopping list this year! Click HERE to check out our new arrivals uploaded daily!
Sources
Let’s take the shame out of low-maintenance looks and let’s embrace this new normal for what it has to offer: functional and fashionable alternatives!
]]>Let’s take the shame out of low-maintenance looks and let’s embrace this new normal for what it has to offer: functional and fashionable alternatives!
Let’s face it, those of us who can work from home are going to ride out this wave for as long as humanly possible! It’s now socially acceptable to wear sweatpants to board meetings. While we do want to thank Zoom for hiding our bottom half every day, we’re now seeing this massive trend on the rise!
Athleisure wear has been a trend for some time now (those that love it, love it and those that hate it, hate it), but it took the circumstances of 2020 to put it into overdrive! Influencers, models, and celebrities alike are showing off their new digs during quarantine and honestly, we’re just happy that fashion isn’t taking a break during COVID!
Check out Harper Bazaar’s list of Best Athleisure Wear to Copy Stat and where you can shop these killer new finds!
So maybe the trends on the runway for Fall 2020 were oblivious to how long this pandemic would go on for. Meaning, we have a mix of practical and impractical looks when it comes to fall footwear trends. Given that night clubs, events, and parties are either #cancelled or online, stilettos and heels in general are not going to be our go-to working from home, running essential errands and social distance BBQ hangs shoe of choice.
Looking at some trends that we can get on board with, we’ve picked out some functional fashion finds!
Self-explanatory. Remember to always look fashionable AND WEAR A MASK! Protect yourself, protect others.
Check out our favourites below!
Did anyone else try and make their tiny cross-body bags and clutches work this summer? It was just too damn hard! With hand sanitizer, wipes, gloves, and backup masks to carry on you at all times, little handbags seem to be a thing of the past (for now). Especially as the weather gets chillier, we’ll be packing even more with us on a day out. With that, we need practical handbags that can do the job!
Here’s what the Fall 2020 runways had to offer us in the “big bag” department.
Don’t forget that a lot of these new essentials can be found on luxsecondchance.com! Need to accessorize your athleisure wear look? Trying to find some designer sneakers? Look no further! And handbags, handbags, handbags are what we’re known for! There’s too many great finds to narrow it down, so check out our handbag section here.
Happy shopping, Luxers!
]]>The top trend that made an appearance in all four lists was fringe, fringe, fringe for days! And then when you’re finished with fringe, you do it again. Seems daunting? It could arguably be a really easy trend to pull off. With so many different ways to incorporate fringe into a look, you can use it to add extra texture, extra drama, or extra fun! Check out some of our favourite fringe pieces on our Lux Second Chance site.
The prep school boy falls in love with the equestrian super star and the rest is history. With this trend, we decided to marry some common themes we saw presented in this fall’s trend forecast. Where classic British looks meet New England staples, preppy plaids, clean tailoring, and smart blazers are here to live their best lives. Realistically, what is more fall than plaid? Seriously, what is more luxury than equestrian chic? Here are our favourite horseback riding inspired pieces and our reasons for being mad for plaid!
Who is prep school plaid’s spicier, edgier sister? That would be punk plaid and the new age grunge look. The major 90’s vibe is having a moment right now in more ways than just oversized plaid shirts tied around the waist. Slinky slip dresses, tiny chokers, and combat boots were all over the runways for the fall 2020 shows and if we’re being honest; we’re here for it! To find your nouveau grunge look, we recommend these studded pieces!
We know the animal hide and skins will never go out of fashion, but what’s specific to this fall is all about the shag and all about the shear. Showcased on all four forecasts, it’s been decided. Perfected, smooth, and pristine furs are out! Messy shags are in! Want something a little more daring, dramatic, and edgy than your basic furs? Shake it up this fall with some shearling accessories!
We love rock n’ roll and we’ll put another dime in the jukebox, baby! At this point in the list, we’ve come to the conclusion that edge is in! There’s so many ways to incorporate a little edge, a little character, and a little dare and flare to your looks this fall! Heavy metals can take your look from safe to style in just one easy way. Oversized chains and metals are dominating the entire accessories sector! Here’s our best finds for some chain-linked accessories.
The other end of the spectrum, the fall runway this year has shown influence of a more prim and proper time: the Victorian era. High-neck tops, tightly buttoned up coats, billowing sleeves, and antique floral prints all scream Little Women chic. Honestly, we are loving it! But maybe you’re feeling like you can’t commit to the whole look? Pick it up in subtle details like jewelry or in a sophisticated print.
Okay, so maybe this is a bonus one, and definitely not anything we saw on the runway (yet). Of course, when Fall 2020 showed on the runway COVID-19 was not a global threat. So much has changed since then. Can we expect to see face masks on the runway in the future? You can bet good money on that! Although we haven’t seen high fashion masks on the runway just yet, luxury fashion brands have already jumped on the opportunity. We at Lux Second Chance encourage everyone to be safe and considerate of others, but that doesn’t mean you have to compromise style! Here are some of our favourite high fashion face masks from our favourite brands.
Sources:
https://www.elle.com/fashion/trend-reports/a30783604/fall-fashion-trends-2020/
https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/g30900180/fall-fashion-trends-2020/?slide=70
https://www.vogue.com/article/fall-2020-runway-trend-report
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/fashion-week/g30766293/fall-2020-fashion-trends/
https://www.marieclaire.com/fashion/a30271692/bag-trends-2020/
https://www.refinery29.com/en-us/2020/05/9782883/stylish-fashion-face-mask-coronavirus#slide-2
https://www.vogue.com/slideshow/stylish-face-masks-to-shop-now
https://fashionmagazine.com/style/face-masks-canada-fashion-brands/
]]>As a way to feel like you can make positive change at an individual level, we’ve outlined proactive steps consumers and fashion professionals can take to fight the good fight against anti-Black racism. Some are easier than others, but all are worth our time and energy. This can’t just be a Black problem; it needs to be everybody’s problem, which we all have a responsibility to fix.
As a fashion consumer, the best way to put your money where your mouth is would be to support Black-owned fashion and beauty brands in order for your purchasing behaviour to send a message of solidarity, support, and call for change. Black men and women have been creating notable and attention-worthy fashion for decades now. Is it more difficult for Black artists and designers to break into the luxury world of fashion? 100%
To actively change this, the call to action for all fashionistas is to invest in great designer brands, created and controlled by Black owners. Here are the best lists we’ve come across for Black-owned designer brands to support from sources like Flare, Harper’s Bazaar, InStyle, and Shoppe Black.
There are plenty of local Black-owned fashion and beauty brands that you can support and feel good about. It literally has never been easier to find these brands online, as fashion media and publications have been seeking these brands to feature to their audiences, so that we can all play a role in this positive change. Remember, this is a marathon, not a sprint. These businesses need your support right now, but especially tomorrow and next year and 10 years from now as we all MUST do more to support Black-owned brands even down the road when the focus shifts.
If you’re fortunate enough to be in a hiring position within the creative realms of a fashion company, hiring Black artists and designers on to your creative team, ensuring that you listen to their decisions, and trust their taste is critical. This also needs to be reflected in the content your company puts out. Including education on racial injustices as a part of a brand’s ongoing social media and marketing strategy is essential at ALL times, not just when it’s being highlighted in the news cycle.
This leads into our next point. With Black creatives on your team, there is a better chance that cultural appropriation and insensitivities will be spotted and stopped before it hits retail stores. Having an all-white lens to the world around us actually makes it more difficult to spot inequalities and unethical use of another’s culture for our own gain. A lot of the time, this plays out in the fashion world as forms of cultural appropriation.
It’s a tale as old as time and something every consumer or person working within the fashion industry has grown to understand: Companies profit and thrive off of Black culture without being respectful of it or Black lives. The definition of cultural appropriation is the adopting or co-opting, usually without acknowledgement, of cultural identity markers associated with, or originating in, minority communities by people or communities with a relatively privileged status. We see this in fashion brands adopting tribal prints, insensitive language or naming of collections or pieces, or selling typically “Black” styles to their white audience.
In addition, the latest form of cultural appropriation has come as companies find ways to profit off the Black Lives Matter movement by selling merchandise priced-for-profit and then not doing anything with that profit besides adding it to their bottom-line. According to Ayesha Barenblat of Remake speaking to Instyle magazine, “Right now, we’re seeing a lot of brands co-opting the Black Lives Matter movement to sell us more products while continuing to oppress and mistreat the Black and Brown people within their retail operations and supply chains. We are here to hold these brands accountable.” We’ll say this loud and clear: It is never okay for a fashion company to profit off a human rights movement. It’s one thing if a Black-owned business is seeing an influx in their sales as a result of people seeking to support Black-owned businesses. It is quite another if an existing brand piggy-backs off this movement as a solution to bring in more revenue, especially after a market slowdown caused by a global pandemic.
The white, thin, young model has been the pillar of high-fashion since its inception. Many companies have already taken the steps to challenge this over the past decade, but has it been sufficient enough? Are Black models given the same opportunities as white models? Are fashion companies still trying to “fix” Black model’s hair to reflect a westernized ideal? This old way of thinking what universal beauty is has to change and it has to change now. Fashion media and advertising must reflect the diverse world that we live in; diverse of skin color, body type, gender, age, and ability. As consumers, or even individuals that work in fashion, it is our call to action to do better and expect better from fashion brands and media.
The fashion industry has always benefitted from active racism. In the most notable way, it has given us the ability to buy clothes at a ridiculously cheap cost and in large quantities. If the entire world and its population were treated equal, sweatshops wouldn’t exist. If sweatshops didn’t exist, the fast-fashion market wouldn’t exist. It’s that plain and simple. Besides the damaging costs on the environment, this is why it has never been more important to shop sustainably.
Furthermore, in her interview with InStyle, Ayesha Barenblat went on to explain the reason behind the #NoNewClothes pledge. It’s a 90-day call to action that seeks to empower people to hold brands accountable. It's an action that Barenblat says people can take to change the performative inclusiveness of the fashion industry and push for real changes. As brands are posting awareness about equity (and some even admitting their shortcomings), the vulnerable Black and brown workers are still in danger. Barenblat goes on the explain that, “In the end, we the people hold power over brands and it is our purchases that will goad brands to do right by people and our planet.”
Interestingly, #NoNewClothes doesn't mean you have to stop buying; it means you should be aware of your purchasing power. So, if you do want to purchase something, think about doing so from a Black-owned brand or a small business. Barenblat explains, “The #NoNewClothes pledge does not equate to 'no shopping.' Rather, the hope is that by refraining from purchasing new clothes over the next three months, pledge takers will become more aware of their consumption and habits, and to learn how to vote with their voices and wallets towards brands that mirror our values."
Ever wanted to see where a company puts their trust and receives their knowledge from? Ask to see a picture of their board of directors. Chances are the identities and experiences of those individuals are what are influencing decision making, hiring practices, and company culture. Seeing only white folks in that picture? That could be a problem as that is reflected on the kind of work culture that is being implemented throughout that company. Do the people on the executive team and hiring teams reflect the true diversity of the country in which they operate and sell in? Or is it all similar looking people? Has the company implemented anti-racism practices into their hiring practices? These are the questions you should be looking for clarity on when making your purchasing decisions.
This can be done in a variety of ways. For one, companies need to do better about hiring Black individuals internally to have these voices spoken within their company. For brands to practice what they preach, they need to hire and promote Black talent. This starts the conversation at an internal, organizational level, so that it can then be amplified throughout all front-facing communication a brand does (social media, advertising, marketing, etc.). Encourage the conversation outside of the organization by engaging customers and social media followers to continue the conversation. Companies should consider lending their platform to Black voices to bring awareness to things that are greater than fashion, even though we know these things have an effect on fashion. This requires working with Black influencers and professionals, creating partnerships, and always finding new ways to grow and keep the conversation going well after the news cycle stops.
Influence marketing provides brands an opportunity to tap into new communities and subgroups that may not be influenced or affected by traditional marketing. Today, they have entire agencies dedicated to helping brands find the right fit in regards to influencer marketing. This is a tool that can be used to support, provide space, and amplify Black voices in the fashion industry.
Of course, we could go on for days listing and spotlighting some of the amazing, diverse, and ample amount of Black talent out there right now. Here are some great lists and recommendations of Black fashion influencers to put on your radar from Harper’s Bazaar, Cosmopolitan, Refinery29, and Essence.
This current movement we are in shouldn’t be treated as a PR challenge, but a deep reflection on one’s own self and a company’s own self to bring about systemic change. Systemic, positive, and permanent change cannot be achieved by an Instagram post, an official company-wide statement, or even a one-time donation. Companies MUST do the hard work and must continue this hard work for the entire future of the company. This involves rethinking their branding/marketing strategy to include Black bodies and voices, revamping their hiring processes to exterminate any hiring barriers of BIPOC (Black, Indigenous, People of Color), remodel their Board of Directors to reflect true diversity and inclusion of all voices, and redesign their entire business model to accommodate for fair wages from their factories to the retail stores. This also includes implementing anti-racist training for all staff, from your board of directors to your retail service workers. As well, companies need to work hard to allow company culture to be one that encourages and gives room for tough conversations on racism and amplifying voices of those who have experienced racism.
In addition, we are all well aware of the profit levels both fast-fashion and luxury fashion companies turn out each year. In order to do the hard work, companies must shift resources and invest in Black organizations as a standing item in their yearly budget. All companies set aside a certain amount of finances each year for stewardship. The organizations that companies choose to support with their stewardship fund reflect the morals and values of that company.
This work cannot be done overnight, but it does need to start today. As consumers, we must put our money where our mouth is and rethink our purchases if the brand does not reflect our values. Doing our part in this movement cannot be performative, it must be reformative.
Sources:
https://fashionista.com/2020/06/fashion-companies-becoming-anti-racist
https://www.instyle.com/fashion/no-new-clothes-campaign-sustainability-accountability
https://www.essence.com/fashion/top-black-fashion-bloggers/#101126
https://www.cosmopolitan.com/style-beauty/fashion/a32757940/black-fashion-influencers/
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/fashion/models/g32732111/black-fashion-bloggers/
https://www.refinery29.com/en-ca/black-fashion-influencers-instagram
https://www.flare.com/fashion-beauty/black-owned-fashion-brands/
https://www.instyle.com/fashion/clothing/black-owned-fashion-brands
https://shoppeblack.us/2019/02/19-black-owned-luxury-brands-to-support-instead-of-gucci-and-prada/
https://www.harpersbazaar.com/uk/fashion/what-to-wear/g32740781/black-designers-fashion-brands/
]]>We are not going to discuss how pollutant the fashion industry is, or the risks that overconsumption creates, the main focus here is what we can do in order to stop the catastrophic effects of climate change. In case you are sceptical that you and I can save the world, Christiana Figueras, the former Executive Secretary of the UN Framework Convention on Climate Change, said “What makes you feel better quickly is actually to engage in a positive contribution so that you bust through this myth that individual actions don't count. And you begin to realize the world is only made out of individual actions. It does count. It does add up” [1].
We all love fashion, we all (at least most of us) enjoy dressing up in the morning. But it has to come to a point when it stops being mechanical and starts being conscious. Our every choice, every decision creates a footprint, and now we need to minimize our fashion footprint, because Mother Nature has had enough with her air being polluted from non-stop factories, rivers filled with toxic dyes, oceans filled with single-use plastic and microplastic from the polyester threads.
It is not that hard to start changing our consumption habits for such a good cause, without sacrificing the style! Dressing with intention and responsibility is much easier than it seems to be. According to Kelly Green in her article “Dressing ethically: Where to start” [2] You can follow a couple of simple resolutions:
The main message from these resolutions is the idea that the item has to last. The problem that fashion is facing today comes from the fact that in 2018, people (1 in 10 in U.K.) discard their clothing after getting it seen three times on social media [4]. This should not be happening. Livia Firth, the founder of Eco Age, created an initiative #30Wears, claiming that an item should be worn at least 30 times, and beyond. When you are shopping, ask yourself — will I wear this item 30 times? If not — do you really even like it or you are just following your impulsive shopping habit? If you REALLY love an item, you will wear it and wear it, and you will enjoy it!
While it has been discussed that clothing should be made of natural and preferably not blended materials and fibres (100% cotton, 100% silk, 100% wool), because synthetic ones and blends are either not biodegradable or too hard to recycle. You again have the power to extend the life cycle of a garment - you can wear it as long as possible, mend it and fix it. Once you are tired of it and it is still wearable - you can donate it, swap it or resell it. What is old for you is new to somebody else!
Circular fashion system (as opposed to the current “linear system”) is the new way that is considered to be essential in order to avoid disastrous effects of climate change and exhaustion of Mother Earth’s resources. According to Global Fashion Agenda (GFA), the world’s leading forum on sustainable fashion, “a circular system restores and regenerates materials, in addition to providing opportunities to reduce environmental pressures and ease demand on natural resources while securing future supply and capturing the value of a product to the greatest extent possible” [6].
While consumers can do their part with daily choices and changing their habits, big companies are slowly getting on board with sustainable practices as well. At the Copenhagen Fashion Summit 2017, Global Fashion Agenda called on fashion brands and retailers to sign a commitment to accelerate the transition to a circular fashion system. As of June 2018, 94 companies and corporations had signed the 2020 Circular Fashion System Commitment, representing 12.5% of the global fashion market [6]. Resale is one of the four immediate action points that companies must commit to by 2020 in order to implement sustainability practices.
From a consumer’s standpoint, resale of pre-loved and vintage shopping is the path not only for unique fashion looks but a confident route for saving Mother Nature. It adds purpose for shoppers. In terms of the benefits of the pre-loved shopping, it is not only exclusive finds that nobody else has, but also is a way of extending a life cycle of the item simply by changing its owners. This practice keeps items away from the landfills, which contributes to less carbon and gas emissions from the rotting goods. It also does not require new production, which is a great way to reduce environmental footprint. According to GFA, extending the life cycle of a garment by just nine months through reselling reduces waste, water and carbon footprints by 20-30% each and cuts resource costs by 20% [6]. Luxury fashion goods have an extremely long life. Just look at a vintage Hermes bag - even at 60 years old, it can look almost like new! As an added bonus —you as a consumer, save money! Everybody wins! Isn’t that terrific?
As a silver lining of the COVID-19 pandemic people are discussing the positive environmental effects of the lockdown — how the air is getting cleaner, the waters are getting clearer, mountains are becoming more visible, animals are appearing and filling up empty streets. Many ask - how can we keep it this way? - and it all requires our individual actions and our personal choices to be more responsible in the way we consume and use resources.
Here at Lux Second Chance we actually believe that we can save the world one handbag at a time.
We can make a difference, save Mother Nature and make our Mothers proud!
Sources:
The world, the economy, and our lives as we knew them seemed to come to a screeching halt in mid-March as North America could no longer escape the inevitable. Virtually every industry in the world has been hit by major event cancellations, from the Coachella Valley Music and Arts Festival all the way to the 2020 Summer Olympics in Japan. Major fashion events affected are the 2020 Vogue Met Gala, the CFDA Awards (Council of Fashion Designers of America), and the CAFA (Canadian Arts & Fashion Awards) [4].
Global and regional supply chains have been disrupted with the services sector, tourism, travel, and retail taking the brunt of it. Consequently, the decline in economic activity and constraints on people’s movements is impacting both manufacturing and services [3].
As a result, this crisis has created a paradigm shift in consumer behaviour. From purchasing masks and hand sanitizer at any cost, to being forced to shop online, to viewing everything on a livestream platform, the world has certainly been turned on its head.
As previously mentioned, the services sector, tourism, travel, hospitality, and retail are going to take the greatest toll. As such, the impact of COVID-19 on job loss will affect women in dramatically higher proportions than their male counterparts. This is because women are over-represented in the most affected sectors. The International Labour Organization (ILO) estimates that 58.6% of employed women work in the services (tourism, hospitality, retail, beauty, etc.) sector around the world, compared to 45.4% of men [3].
How does this affect consumer behaviour? Overall losses in labour income are expected in the range of 860 to 3,440 billion USD. The loss of labour income will translate into lower consumption of goods and services, which is detrimental to the continuity of businesses and ensuring the economy can bounce back after a major slowdown in business. In this regard, factual, consistent, prompt, and transparent information is critical in not just fighting the pandemic itself, but also for reducing uncertainty and boosting confidence at all levels of the economy, society, and workplace. A decline in—or lack of—confidence affects consumer spending and business investments, inducing economic slowdown and hindering recovery [3].
Ever since the invention of the World Wide Web in the 1990s, our world has been heavily reliant on the internet for everything from virtual communications to buying concert tickets to checking the weather. But in the wake of this new pandemic, our lives are arguably more digital than ever!
Of course, the obvious burst in online traffic comes from the online shopping sector as physical store fronts and non-essential businesses had to close up shop, driving consumers to do their spending online.
Online shopping is far from a new phenomenon. However, the mounting concern over COVID-19, especially now in North America, is having an impact on online shopping behaviour in particular. This is according to data from Adobe Analytics, which monitors the eCommerce transactions of 80 of the top 100 U.S. retailers [1]. This behaviour is changing because online shopping generally was a platform for consumers to indulge in fashion, entertainment, household items, etc.—those deemed “non-essential” purchases. What’s driving online shopping traffic—to the point of overload—is actually a major spike in essential goods purchasing.
As grocery stores, drug stores, and hardware stores become breeding grounds for possible infection, shoppers are purchasing virus protection equipment, groceries and other essentials online. According to Adobe’s analysis, the virus protection category of products, such as hand sanitizers, gloves, masks, and antibacterial sprays, have surged by 817% and toilet paper (though not officially deemed “virus protection”) has spiked by 186% [1].
Like every market in the world, the fashion industry is not immune to this economic decline. Fashion stocks have already seen a plummet amidst the current situation. The most notable of the hardest hit fashion stocks are G-III Apparel Group (down 27.1% to $11.07), Capri Holdings (down 26.2% to $10.29), RealReal Inc. (down 19.3% to $7.02), Tapestry Inc. (down 19.3% to $13.10), and Nordstrom Inc. (down 17% to $17.93) [4].
With this, fashion retailers are going to, and already have been, flashing discounts in order to keep interest, sell what they can, and bring in some form of revenue (even if it’s a small one). Unsold inventory is quickly piling up, prompting companies to cancel or suspend orders for new clothes, and in some cases, stop taking deliveries at already-full warehouses. For fashion retailers, one of the lingering and most damaging effects of the 2008 recession was the dependence on discounts. After their sales tanked, companies leaned on promotions to clear out all inventory sitting unsold and to get shoppers buying again. However, the problem that resulted was consumers coming to expect discounts, and even years later, hesitant to buy clothes at full price. The COVID-19 pandemic may result in this cycle repeating again [2].
In a new joint report, McKinsey and Business of Fashion offer a forecast on how the COVID-19 crisis will affect the fashion industry, stating, “Companies will turn to steep discounting to clear inventory for the rest of the year at a minimum, with a risk that the contagion of deep discounting could spread as quickly as the disease through the industry.” Shoppers will likely cut discretionary spending, as they anticipate the outcome of the current global economic situation [2].
Fear not, research indicates this brings potential positive and innovative futures for the luxury industry and the luxury resale market.
As we've already witnessed, the global pandemic has caused a major disruption to the normal Fashion Week cycle. COVID-19 hit Italy in the midst of Milan Fashion Week in late February, causing a number of designers—including Giorgio Armani, who bared a public audience to view his fall 2020 runway show—to rethink their show formats. As a result, other major design houses and fashion weeks alike have had to postpone or cancel their upcoming runway shows [4].
According to a report by Altagamma in association with Boston Consulting Group, it is predicted that COVID-19 can bring down global luxury sales between 30 billion Euros to 40 billion Euros. With that, major parts of the world are struggling with weakening demand and disrupted value chains [5].
It is thought that the outbreak of COVID-19 could move luxury consumers to assess and re-assess things from a different perspective as it may alter the key motivational factors for luxury goods consumption. The beliefs, values, and attitudes of luxury shoppers may drastically evolve, leading to changing consumption patterns and behaviours. On a positive note, one could hope that consumers may be driven to buy luxury for “conscientious value” rather than “conspicuous value.” As a result of this crisis, consumers may be willing to spend more on sustainable brands that reflect their own values and beliefs, as well as fair trade product consumption. It has even been thought that affluent consumers will rethink and re-prioritize their fashion consumption to make it less conspicuous and more responsive toward society as well as the environment [5].
If luxury brands get on board with this ahead of the curve, this would be a great opportunity for them to re-define their business models and create products that are authentic and responsible. This would require them to think deeper beyond the loud logo and pure brand loyalty strategy [5].
On the other end of the spectrum, another outcome of this pandemic could result in consumers indulging in hedonistic purchases to make them feel better in this stressful time (or better known as: retailer therapy). This behaviour has been termed as ‘revenge or retaliatory’ spending. Shoppers buy luxury products for ‘ego-centered’ values and how it makes them feel in regards to well-being, superiority, and status. If luxury retailers and brands tap into this, they’d know to make efforts to provide comforting experiences to consumers to help them cope with irrational fears [5].
Many believe that the fear of infection will go on longer than the virus itself. This could have a long-term effect on physical retail spaces and could ultimately result in a “new normal” of buying online to avoid stores all together. This will cause luxury retailers to provide more meaningful online experiences to connect and grab the attention of a competitive online shopping scene. If luxury brands embrace this now, this slowdown would be the right time for them to equip themselves to digitize the processes and upgrade their systems and technology [5], catering more to online traffic instead of physical foot traffic.
Research indicates optimistic predictions for the future of the online luxury resale market. This is due to the high dependency on online shopping, possible “conscientious value” shopping, and the potential need to purchase luxury at resale prices, instead of full retail price in this economy. With this, we should also remember that the luxury resale market offers a circular economy and consumer cycle, as opposed to the traditional buy/consumer cycle of make, use, dispose. This could be the leading edge that resale companies have over traditional luxury retailers going into the future.
It is said that the luxury industry remains hopeful to bounce back to previous consumers levels after the pandemic ends. However, this pandemic may bring a major change in the consumers’ mindsets and value systems that construct their luxury buying decisions. The brands that work to understand this and adapt accordingly and quickly will surely turn out to be the new champions moving forward [5].
But let’s remember that it is not all doom and gloom. On a positive and reassuring note, the fashion industry has been coming together to do their part, as well as raise funds to combat COVID-19’s global spread. Many influential figures and fashion designers are donating money and resources to hospitals and institutions around the world, especially to critically-impacted countries such as Italy [4].
Another example, parent company LVMH of Givenchy, Louis Vuitton, and Dior is switching manufacturing gears amid the global outbreak. All the perfume and cosmetics production facilities for the fashion giant began making hand sanitizer instead of luxury fragrances last month. They plan to donate their new inventory directly to French hospitals and authorities to fight the spread[6].
In Italy, the former epicenter of the pandemic, Donatella Versace and her daughter Allegra donated more than $222,000 to Milan’s San Raffaele hospital to fight COVID-19. The designer wrote on her Instagram, “In times like this, it is important to be united and support however we can to help all those who are in the front lines, fighting every day to save hundreds of lives." [6]
Also in Italy, Prada’s co-CEO’s Patrizio Bertelli and Miuccia Prada, as well as chairman Carlo Mazzi, announced they have donated two intensive care and resuscitation units each to Milan hospitals Vittore Buzzi, Sacco, and San Raffaele [6].
With these affirmative actions, it gives us heart and hope that we are in this together. It won’t be easy, but it will be conquerable with the help of those who can do their part. We urge consumers to do their part by buying conscientiously, support sustainability, and act responsibly. This pandemic is much bigger than fashion and the risks it brings to the industry; it has a larger, global affect. It will be interesting to see how the luxury fashion market steps up, responds, and adapts to this “new normal”.
We at Lux Second Chance hope you all stay safe, stay healthy, and stay connected during this period of uncertainty! Until next time, Luxers!
Sources:
1. Giselle Abramovich, “How COVID-19 is Impacting Online Shopping Behaviour”, Adobe Blog, March 26, 2020. https://theblog.adobe.com/how-covid-19-is-impacting-online-shopping-behavior/
2. Marc Bain, “Covid-19 is going to make fashion’s discounting problem much worse”, Quartz, April 8, 2020. https://qz.com/1834916/covid-19-is-going-to-make-fashions-discount-problem-much-worse/
3. “COVID-19 and the world of work: Impact and policy responses”. International Labour Organization. March 18, 2020. https://www.ilo.org/wcmsp5/groups/public/---dgreports/---dcomm/documents/briefingnote/wcms_738753.pdf
4. Layla Ilchi, “How the Coronavirus is Impacting the Fashion, Beauty and Retail Industries”, WWD, March 17, 2020. https://wwd.com/fashion-news/fashion-scoops/coronavirus-impact-fashion-beauty-retail-fashion-week-store-closures-1203541123/
5. Sheetal Jain, “COVID-19 outbreak: Implications for luxury industry in 2020 and beyond”, Business Today, March 23, 2020. https://www.businesstoday.in/opinion/columns/coronavirus-in-india-covid-19-outbreak-implications-for-luxury-industry-in-2020-business/story/399002.html
6. Lindsay Weinberg, “Givenchy, Dior Perfumeries Now Manufacturing Hand Sanitizer”, The Hollywood Reporter, March 16, 2020. https://www.hollywoodreporter.com/news/dior-givenchy-perfumeries-now-manufacturing-hand-sanitizer-1284841
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